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Old 08-21-2012, 05:32 AM   #1
907_fellow
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Tonight I brewed my second batch. It was a nut brown ale. The recipe called for a vile of wyest European ale yeast but I accidently bought a vile of wyeast English ale yeast. How is this gonna turn out? My OG was 1.052. Everything else went well.
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First run in the keggle. Still need all the weld less fittings but it worked.
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Nice dark nut brown ale.
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:13 AM   #2
Kentunkel
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So the 1098 is the whitbread dry strain. It is more attenuative than the 1338 so you'll likely get a drier beer in the end. Its a clean yeast, I just used it on a batch of English brown myself, it takes a little longer to clear than the 1338. With the caramel malt in your recipe you'll have plenty of residual sweetness and in my opinion a better beer. It could have been pretty cloying with the euro ale strain.



 
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Old 08-21-2012, 06:45 PM   #3
daksin
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I think the english ale yeast is going to make an excellent nut brown ale. Might've been my chioce to begin with!
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Old 08-21-2012, 06:50 PM   #4
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Which Wyeast yeast did you use? There are several 'English' strains available from them.

BTW, Wyeast doesn't have a strain marked as "European ale yeast" so I wouldn't worry. The instructions probably intended for you to pick an English strain anyway.

I really enjoy what Wyeast 1318, 1335, and 1882-PC do for my brews. I use those three strains for almost everything (at least when I have some viable 1882-PC available).
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Old 08-21-2012, 11:46 PM   #5
907_fellow
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I threw the vile away and am too new to the home brew scene to remember which number it was. Guess I need to pay more attention next time and take better notes ( I wrote down the wyeast English ale but not the #). Oh well it's too late now! Just gotta enjoy the brew. Those of you that have brewed nut brown ale, what would be suggested primary/secondary fermentation times? As far as aging goes. Thanks for the input!

 
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Old 08-21-2012, 11:50 PM   #6
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Wyeast comes in pouches, White Labs comes in vials. I've only used Wyeast for my beers (smack packs, or activator packs as they're also called)...
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On Tap: Caramel Ale, Mocha Porter II, MO SMaSH IPA
Waiting/Carbonating: 12.5% Wee Honey II, 8.9% Old Ale, English Brown Ale, Lickah ESB, Mocha Porter II
Fermenting
K1:
K2: Epic mead
K3: TripSix
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Aging:mead
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Old 08-22-2012, 04:17 AM   #7
907_fellow
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It was a white labs yeast then sorry. Again I am new an this was the first time I have used liquid yeast. Does it normally take longer to show initial signs of taking hold if you don't do a starter? Last batch I brewed with dry yeast, I was able to see a lot of activity in 24 hrs. Art this point, it's been 24 hrs and it's defiantly slower.
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Old 08-22-2012, 05:10 PM   #8
907_fellow
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Previous pic was last night at 8pm. Woke up at 6:30 this morning to a pleasant surprise . Might need a blow off on her this afternoon ha
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:34 PM   #9
907_fellow
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Airlock was starting to fill with foam when I won't home at lunch so I added a blow off to her. Sanitized with star-San the best I could and filled the water jug with star San.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:47 PM   #10
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I'll add that the worst yeast on that list for the beer is Cooper's. The beer would have been too sweet. Other than that, I think you'll have a good beer. It should be done fermenting in 4-5 more days. Most of us do not use secondaries any more. As soon as the fermentation finishes the trub will start to settle (clear) and the beer will darken at the top. Once the dark layer goes all the way down, it's ready to bottle. Since it's a Brown, give it a week to carbonate and it will be good to go.


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