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Old 07-04-2013, 07:51 AM   #91
Cacaman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlbeer

You are looking at the coil in this picture. The shiny orange part is the coil for pulling the relay closed. There are 2 spade terminal connections there so they can be easily daisy chained together (you probably don't need that though).

On each side, where there are multiple YELLOW spade and screw connections, these are your Line and Load. Pick one side to be Line and one side to be load. Test these with your multi-meter after you have hooked up the coil connections and are able to test the relay BEFORE hooking up other wires. The relay does not care which side is line or load.

You have a multi-meter, right?

That screw on the bottom looks like its for mounting the relay to the plate.

Paul
Ahhhh... I failed to realize that those are for "blade terminals". I was cracking my head open trying to look for screws for ring or spade terminals. In that case ill go exactly by kals diagram as I was before... Orientation the same and all


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Originally Posted by BierMuncher View Post

“Get your beer off the yeast cake on day 7 or your beer will crawl out of the fermenter and eat your youngest child”

“Your beer will be the equivalent of rhinoceros urine unless it sits on the primary yeast cake for at least 4 weeks.”

 
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:35 PM   #92
stlbeer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cacaman

Ahhhh... I failed to realize that those are for "blade terminals". I was cracking my head open trying to look for screws for ring or spade terminals. In that case ill go exactly by kals diagram as I was before... Orientation the same and all
Now your winning!


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Old 07-28-2013, 02:50 PM   #93
Cacaman
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So I have begun wiring and I have come across another question. This is what my doorbell transformers look like.



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I imagine these are the "12 VAC" sides of the transformers.

Does it matter which 2 of these screws lead to the "AC in" in the DC power supply sets?

I am especially concerned with the second one that has 3 screws. Thanks!!
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Cacaman cheap keezer build!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BierMuncher View Post

“Get your beer off the yeast cake on day 7 or your beer will crawl out of the fermenter and eat your youngest child”

“Your beer will be the equivalent of rhinoceros urine unless it sits on the primary yeast cake for at least 4 weeks.”

 
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Old 07-31-2013, 05:32 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cacaman View Post
I am especially concerned with the second one that has 3 screws. Thanks!!
Regarding the doorbell transformer with 3 screws, of you look closely you should be able to tell how any combination of 2 (of the three) yields a diff voltage. For instance, I think mine were 5v, 8v, and 12v...
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:53 PM   #95
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I am trying to wire the spa panel at this point. 3 prong dryer cord to 4 prong receptacle as seen here:

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A few silly questions but I just want to be 100% sure:

1. Navy blue/red are hots while yellow is neutral?

2. What gauge wire is used to attach to the receptacle I am mounting?

3. Is the "middle" wire neutral, as seen below?


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Cacaman cheap keezer build!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BierMuncher View Post

“Get your beer off the yeast cake on day 7 or your beer will crawl out of the fermenter and eat your youngest child”

“Your beer will be the equivalent of rhinoceros urine unless it sits on the primary yeast cake for at least 4 weeks.”

 
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:57 AM   #96
Cacaman
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Bumpy anyone?
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Cacaman cheap keezer build!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BierMuncher View Post

“Get your beer off the yeast cake on day 7 or your beer will crawl out of the fermenter and eat your youngest child”

“Your beer will be the equivalent of rhinoceros urine unless it sits on the primary yeast cake for at least 4 weeks.”

 
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:06 PM   #97
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Man, you're scaring me knowing that some day you will power up that panel

I do believe the center wire of that cord is ground. Usually they will have some different marking or physical appearance. But someone in your boat that is so unsure of stuff, why not check it with the multimeter you should have laying around? Sure would be better than attaching a hot to your ground inside the box.

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Old 08-27-2013, 04:48 PM   #98
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Don't assume. Use a multimeter to check and confirm before you wiring anything up/turn anything on.

With the cord UNPLUGGED from the wall, use the continuity tester on your multimeter to check which blade goes to which wire so you don't inadvertently mix things up.

Kal

 
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:47 AM   #99
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Good call, thanks Kal. Anyone know the answer's to question 1 and 2?
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Cacaman cheap keezer build!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BierMuncher View Post

“Get your beer off the yeast cake on day 7 or your beer will crawl out of the fermenter and eat your youngest child”

“Your beer will be the equivalent of rhinoceros urine unless it sits on the primary yeast cake for at least 4 weeks.”

 
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:09 PM   #100
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1) In the drawing, yellow is neutral. The navy blue/black is one of the hot legs.

2) Refer to this document: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/ele...rewers-145019/

You'll find that the gauge of wire needed is based on the drawing amperage. 30amp is 10AWG. Make sure your outlet is rated for that as well.


Before powering any of this up, make sure you double check all connections with a multimeter.


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