Calculated O.G. Much Higher Than Actual O.G. - Page 2 - Home Brew Forums

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08-13-2012, 11:28 PM   #11
jetmac

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Aug 2010
Mcdonough, Ga
Posts: 1,140
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by ArcLight Maybe the crush wasn't that good? Also, using 70% and a theoretical average yield of 35 points per pound (assuming its not all 2 row) you end up with around 25 points per pound. 25 * 17 /5 = 85 not 1.094
That's the same number I got
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Revvy>>You shouldn't worry about ANYTHING, you didn't hurt the yeast, they know what they need to do, they want to eat all that sugar they are swimming around in. They want to pee alcohol and fart co2, it's their nature.

Bobby_M>>I flood the keg with CO2 for one minute with the lid off, rack the beer in to the bottom gently, seal it, flood it, vent it. If there's still O2 in there after that, F it.

08-13-2012, 11:30 PM   #12
jetmac

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Aug 2010
Mcdonough, Ga
Posts: 1,140
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What was you're volume after the boil?
What was the gravity pre-boil?
How much strike water did you use?

You may want to increase your strike water to help with efficiency and it will give you more wort from the first runnings which will be a better wort.

Ideally you would want the strike volume and sparge volume the same but I would start with increasing your strike volume to get closer to 1.4-1.5qts/lb

once you get the wort in the kettle, take a gravity reading. Then you can calculate what volume you have to boil down to to get your target post boil gravity.

I usually try to get 7-7.5 gallons of wort in my kettle. Then when I transfer to the carboy, I can usually leave quite a bit in the bottom of the kettle to avoid tranfering the trub and still get the volume in the carboy I want.
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Wayne Gretzky-"100% of the shots you don't take, don't go in

Revvy>>You shouldn't worry about ANYTHING, you didn't hurt the yeast, they know what they need to do, they want to eat all that sugar they are swimming around in. They want to pee alcohol and fart co2, it's their nature.

Bobby_M>>I flood the keg with CO2 for one minute with the lid off, rack the beer in to the bottom gently, seal it, flood it, vent it. If there's still O2 in there after that, F it.

08-14-2012, 12:25 AM   #13
Maxkling
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Oct 2010
Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 554
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If you sparged with 170 degree water, it was too low. This is prolly how I would have done it.

14lbs of grain shooting for 150 degree mash a preboil of 6.5 gallons and sparge at 175.

Strike 6.5 gallons at 162(I would prolly heat to around 166-167 and add to non-preheated mash tun, watch the drop and stir to cool til I get to 162). Then stir the ever living hell out of it. Take temp reading, wait ten min and take another reading. 60 to 75mins later Vourlauf and drain. Then add the 2 gallons of 210 ish degree water to reach a sparge mash temp of 170. Wait ten minutes then Vorlauf and drain.

Also as jetmac stated above I try to shoot for the same preboil volume of 7 to 7.5. After I whirlpool I loose a good bit to the cone from hotbreak.
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08-14-2012, 12:54 PM   #14
billl
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May 2012
Raleigh, NC
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"My strike water volume was 4.25 gallons (using the 1 quart per pound rule) and unfortunately I didn't take a temp reading once I added the sparge water."

It sounds like you are getting a little down on this brew, but honestly, you are pretty close. The reality is that there is absolutely no way on earth to know the particulars of your system without brewing on it a couple of times. You just found out a very valuable bit of data for your system that 1qt per LB only netted you 2 gallons of first running. You use that bit of data to improve the next brew. ie If you bump up the strike water to about 5.5 gallons, you should net out 3.25 gallons of wort on the first runnings or about 50%.

Add a bit more stirring , increase that sparge temp a bit and you will be well on your way towards dialing in your system. Congrats!

08-14-2012, 03:15 PM   #15
jetmac

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Aug 2010
Mcdonough, Ga
Posts: 1,140
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by scruff311 My strike water volume was 4.25 gallons (using the 1 quart per pound rule) and unfortunately I didn't take a temp reading once I added the sparge water. When should I be stirring the mash? I guess I was afraid to lose heat and once the strike water was in, I gave it a quick stir and sealed the HLT up for an hour.
Yes you will lose heat. That is actually a technique to get a temp that is too high. Stir the heck out of it until it drops.

You don't need a temp reading of the mash when you start the sparge.

I typically heat my sparge to just under a boil, then I will store it in a 5 gallon cooler because I need the kettle to boil the wort. By the time I sparge, it drops to about 180F. If I remember correctly, anything over 168F is where you want to be. Remember, the sparge is just rinsing the grain, the conversion is(or should be) complete when you're done mashing.

I would imangine the grain absorbed about 1.5-2 gallons of water. IMHO you want the majority of the wort you are going to boil to be the first runnings. So if you want 7 gallons at the start of boil you need to get 4 gallons of first runnings in there. That would mean doughing in with probably 5.5 gallons of strike water. I'm not sure of the exact numbers, I'm not at home to run it through BeerSmith.
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Wayne Gretzky-"100% of the shots you don't take, don't go in

Revvy>>You shouldn't worry about ANYTHING, you didn't hurt the yeast, they know what they need to do, they want to eat all that sugar they are swimming around in. They want to pee alcohol and fart co2, it's their nature.

Bobby_M>>I flood the keg with CO2 for one minute with the lid off, rack the beer in to the bottom gently, seal it, flood it, vent it. If there's still O2 in there after that, F it.

08-14-2012, 10:03 PM   #16
scruff311
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Nov 2008
Providence, RI
Posts: 104
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Thanks for all of your input. I've taken a lot of considerations and did some math of my own and came up with a couple of equations which should help me, much of which verified what some of you have already pointed out. I realized that if I am aiming for 50% first-runnings and 50% sparge, then the sparge should always be 1/2 of the desired pre-boil volume.

Sparge Volume = First-Runnings = (Pre-Boil Volume) / 2

Also, if we say the grains will absorb 1/8 gallons of water per pound, we have

Water Retention = 1/8 * Pounds of Grain

and

First Runnings = Strike Volume - Water Retention

if you combine these and solve for Strike Volume, for this specific brew (17 lbs of grain and 7 gallons of pre-boil) I get

Strike Volume = 5.63 gal
Sparge Volume = 3.5 gal

which works out to 1.32 qt per lb strike water. Yay .

08-14-2012, 11:25 PM   #17
jetmac

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Aug 2010
Mcdonough, Ga
Posts: 1,140
Liked 36 Times on 18 Posts

Quote:
 Originally Posted by scruff311 Thanks for all of your input. I've taken a lot of considerations and did some math of my own and came up with a couple of equations which should help me, much of which verified what some of you have already pointed out. I realized that if I am aiming for 50% first-runnings and 50% sparge, then the sparge should always be 1/2 of the desired pre-boil volume. Sparge Volume = First-Runnings = (Pre-Boil Volume) / 2 Also, if we say the grains will absorb 1/8 gallons of water per pound, we have Water Retention = 1/8 * Pounds of Grain and First Runnings = Strike Volume - Water Retention if you combine these and solve for Strike Volume, for this specific brew (17 lbs of grain and 7 gallons of pre-boil) I get Strike Volume = 5.63 gal Sparge Volume = 3.5 gal which works out to 1.32 qt per lb strike water. Yay .
Complicated but I like. You're on the right track
__________________
Wayne Gretzky-"100% of the shots you don't take, don't go in

Revvy>>You shouldn't worry about ANYTHING, you didn't hurt the yeast, they know what they need to do, they want to eat all that sugar they are swimming around in. They want to pee alcohol and fart co2, it's their nature.

Bobby_M>>I flood the keg with CO2 for one minute with the lid off, rack the beer in to the bottom gently, seal it, flood it, vent it. If there's still O2 in there after that, F it.