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Old 08-13-2012, 07:15 PM   #11
bwarbiany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mringo17 View Post
Great advice, I am seeing that more and more reading these posts.

That being said, a lot of the time those are not included in the kits. Is there some sort of checklist so I can make sure I have all the parts if I am buying this piece by piece?
Here's a list I put together on my recent 5-tap keezer build (I already had 3 Perlicks, so I only needed 2 more):

Code:
Perlick SS Faucet	843164	2
Shank Assy 4" w/ 3/16" Barb	843418	5
4-way gas distributor	843674	1
Ball-lock Gas Keg Coupler (MFL)	843382	6
Swivel Nut - 1/4" FFL to 5/16" barb	843413	6
Ball-lock Liquid Keg Coupler (barb)	843385	5
Beverage Tubing (3/16") - 100' Roll	843535	1
CO2 Tubing (5/16")	843553	30
This is description, part number, and quantity. This is all from ritebrew.com.

Note that I already had my CO2 tank, regulator, and a 3-way gas distributor. And I got an extra gas coupler and swivel nut, as my keezer holds 6 kegs so i wanted to be able to force-carbonate the extra slot.

The key is simple -- just work back from the faucet to the keg. You need a faucet, a shank, some way to attach the shank to tubing (mine had a barb built in, but some you need to buy a "tailpiece" and locking nut seperately), tubing, a way to attach the tubing to the coupler (my liquid couplers have built-in barbs), which attaches to the keg.

On the air side, you just work from the tank to the keg. You need a CO2 tank and regulator. You need tubing to some sort of distribution block (BTW since you have a keezer that will hold three kegs, I recommend you get a 3-outlet manifold up front). You need tubing from the distribution block to the coupler (for the gas I used MFL couplers, so I needed the swivel nuts), which attach to the keg.

All that said, when you get your "shopping list", post it up to this thread and we'll let you know if we see anything missing...

 
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Old 08-13-2012, 08:44 PM   #12
nickmv
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I recommend getting a tank from bvrgelements.com.

They've got 10lb new aluminum tanks for about $80 shipped. For beer line and tubing, micromatic.com. Also beveragefactory.com is great.

You're probably going to find it better to mix and match parts, unless someone's got a killer deal.



And ditto on the Perlick faucets. Don't get anything less. You can typically get a faucet/shank/handle combo for 45-60 bucks (depending on chrome vs stainless steel shanks). I went with the SS faucet + chrome shank.
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:17 AM   #13
lotbfan
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add this item to any 2 keg kit and you will be able to have the second keg go either way.

http://www.austinhomebrew.com/produc...ducts_id=12617

 
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Old 08-14-2012, 01:19 PM   #14
mringo17
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Alright, here is my shopping list so far. So what am I missing. Also, on the ball lock couplers, what is MFL versus barb?

From RiteBrew

843164 - Perlick Perl Faucet - Stainless Steel (2)
843374 - Sanke Keg Coupler (1)
Ball-Lock Gas Keg Coupler - 1/4" MFL (2)
843386 - Ball-Lock Liquid Keg Coupler - 1/4" MFL (2)
843425 - Shank Assembly 4" - Stainless Steel (2)
843468 - Rubber Washer (2)
843455 - Tailpiece 1/4" - Stainless Steel (2)
843462 - Hex Nut (2)
843532 - Beverage Tubing - 3/16" - per ft. (20 ft)
843553 - CO2 Tubing - 5/16" - per ft. (do I need 10ft???)


Clamps?

Going to get CO2 tank separately as well as Regulator and Gas Distributor.

 
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Old 08-14-2012, 04:52 PM   #15
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Barb is set up to go direct to tubing, where MFL is a screw connector.

So, for the gas QD:
843381 is barb, so you can simply clamp the gas tube directly onto the outlet of the QD
843382 is MFL, so you need to buy p/n 843413 (swivel nut) or you won't be able to attach your air line

For the liquid QD:
843385 is barb, so you can attach the beverage line direct to the QD
843386 is MFL, so you need to buy p/n 843412 to be able to attach your beverage tubing

Since you want the ability to go back and forth between Sanke and Corny, you *want* to stick with the MFL connectors.

It looks like the Sanke coupler requires a beverage tailpiece, and the gas tailpiece doesn't allow for MFL connection, so you need this:
(2) 843459 - MFL tailpiece
(2) 843462 - Hex nut
(2) 843468 - Rubber washer

This is in addition to the hex nut and rubber washer you list in your post. Those pieces will allow you to easily swap between Sanke and Corny.

As for gas tubing, I'd buy a few extra feet. It's cheap and it's a lot better than not having enough. If you're going to keep your CO2 tank inside the keezer on the hump, 10' is more than enough. If you're planning on mounting it outside the keezer, you might want to go to 15' just to make sure you've got enough.

Last -- clamps. I just bought standard hose clamps at home depot. I know the "Oetiker" clamps are a lot nicer, but I was impatient on the day when I decided to assemble everything...

 
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Old 08-14-2012, 05:15 PM   #16
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I would buy the best items you can afford, if you have to wait and save, it will save you in the long run. Here is a list of what I have for my 4 tap keezer. I would go with MFL fittings where you can for easy of switching if you end up with a ball and a pin lock or switch a commercial keg in any time. Let me know if you have any questions on set up. Here are the links for photos

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BzG...EhNNzg5WDgyZUk
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BzG...XZSZUVGVjdnU3c



[X] Perlick SS Taps (4)-$35.95
[X] SS Shanks (4)-$21.95
[X] Tail Piece (4)-$3.25
[X] Washers (4)-$1.99
[X] Hex Nuts (4)-$1.25
[X] Air Distributor (1)-$41.95
[X] Freezer(1)-$179.00
[X] Temp controller-$75.69
[X] Collar(1)
[X] Ball Lock Kegs (4)
[X] Keg Air in (4)
[X] Keg Beverage Out (4)
[X] #20 C02 Tank(1)-$100.00
[X] C02 Regulator (1)-$449.00
[X] 20 ft 3/16 Inner Diameter (I.D.) Beverage Line
[X] 12 ft 5/16 Inner Diameter (I.D.) Gas Line
[X] Drip Tray(1)-$25.00
[X] Liquid line cleaner 32oz-$13.99
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Old 08-14-2012, 05:21 PM   #17
nickmv
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Typically you can buy the quick disconnects as a pack for gas in and bev-out. Like this one. Note that the one I linked you to does indeed have the barb, despite the picture only showing the threaded piece.

As for gas tubing, bwarbiany is correct. You def want to have some extra tubing around. Many people also get a manifold so that they can split gas off the main line. As you can see in the picture below, I've got a small bit of tubing going to my manifold and secondary regulator, and then I've got a good 7-8 ft running off the manifold, which goes straight to the primary regulator. I use this for force carbing, rather than having to tap into my regulator lines. You'll learn quickly that once you've got a quick disconnect on the beer or gas line, it isn't coming off easy. But anyhoo, you can basically force carb straight off the main gas, and just use a long line to have it outside the kegerator while you do the "keg-roll".

See here:
__________________
Primary #1 (SS Brew Bucket):
Primary #2 (SS 7G Chronical):
Secondary #1:
Secondary #2:
Kegged & Waiting:
ON TAP: Oatmeal Stout[br /]Holiday IPA

 
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:01 PM   #18
mringo17
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Alright sweet, this has been great. Let's keep it going and I really appreciate the help. Check this list.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:45 PM   #19
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Looks pretty good but you need a WYE/manifold or a dual reg. to get gas to the kegs.
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Can we turn our beds into bunk beds? It would free up so much room for activities.

Stay golden, Ponyboy.

Exposure Brewing Co.

Follow on FB, Schwitter and Goggle+

 
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Old 08-14-2012, 08:24 PM   #20
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Don't forget the little nylon flare washers that go in the MFL fittings! You don't need them if the MFL is plastic tipped (corney QDs) but you do if it's all stainless (Sanke coupler tailpiece)

edit: 843414 at ritebrew, it's $0.39. I'd grab like 10 of them, they tend to disappear.

 
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