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Old 07-23-2007, 04:02 PM   #1
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Default Welding the ball valve directly?

I'm trying to accomplish two things. Reduce the number of stainless fittings to buy and keep the ball valve from sticking out from the keg too far.

What if I grind the hex shape off of one end of the valve and have it welded directly into the keg. Can teflon seals handle weld temps?


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Old 07-23-2007, 04:06 PM   #2
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Isn't the purpose of teflon tape to lubricate the threads such that you can torque the fitting so that the threads do the sealing?

I didn't think that the tape acted as the seal.


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Old 07-23-2007, 04:11 PM   #3
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Sorry I wasn't clear... Most stainless ball valves use a teflon ring at the ball to body junction. If I have it welded directly to the keg, it could overheat it I guess. There will be no teflon tape here if I do this.
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Old 07-23-2007, 04:14 PM   #4
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I would say probably not. The entire valve might warp as well.
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Old 07-23-2007, 04:15 PM   #5
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Right (duh). There has to be a technique for this as I imagine that type of thing would happen alot.
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Old 07-23-2007, 04:17 PM   #6
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Why not use a nipple instead of a coupler.

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Old 07-23-2007, 04:21 PM   #7
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The hex part may actually unscrew for a better chance at success (weld this right to the tank and screw the ball body on after) , but you still risk warpage.
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Old 07-23-2007, 04:27 PM   #8
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What are you planning on doing if/when the ball valve should fail?
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Old 07-23-2007, 05:19 PM   #9
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Yeah, I already know it's a bad idea. If the seal went bad, I'd have to find an identical valve and change the guts out.

I never liked the idea of putting the nipple right into the wall because it leaves the threads exposed to damage..in the rare chance you had the valve off of course.
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Old 07-23-2007, 06:01 PM   #10
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Jam a plug on it when the valve is off. To a certain degree you can also fix a nipple with a standard die (or an adjustable die like in threading machines).


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