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Old 07-27-2012, 06:23 AM   #1
Ghost_Fish
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Default Ipa Recipe - needs some help

So this is my 3rd all grain batch but my first 'flying solo' as I had a ton of hand holding on my previous two, and this is my first crack at a recipe so please let me know what you think. Obviously it is gonna be a hop monster but I'm hoping that by skipping the bittering charge and adding a ton at the end it will balance out.

6 Gallon batch

13lb 8oz Golden Promise
2lb Munich malt
9.6 oz Cara-Pils
6.4 oz honey malt

1oz cascade 15 min
1.25 oz centennial 15min
1.5 oz centennial 10 min
2 oz cascade 5 min
2.5 oz centennial 5 min
3 oz citra 5 min
3 oz citra 0 min
2 oz centennial 0 min

Wyeast 1056

I was thinking about mashing at 152 and adding a pound of sugar at the end of the boil.

Beersmith estimates a 1.066 OG and 66 IBUs
but this doesn't take the sugar into account

any and all advice is welcomed


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Old 07-27-2012, 08:53 AM   #2
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Hmmm...too many hops IMO. What makes you want to not have a 60 or even 30 minute bittering addiction?Just curious. You could accomplish a balance beer with a bittering additional and less late additions. All depends what you're going for.

I think you're good at around 60-80 ibus, but the hop additions larger than 1oz seem like overkill. What would the recipe look like ibu wise with 1oz each for all additions? Add to that whatever amount of cascade you need at 60 minutes to reach target ibus.


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Old 07-27-2012, 10:10 AM   #3
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I agree with the veganbrewer. Also, I would skip the sugar, as it isn't going to add much flavor to your beer (I assume you meant basic granulated sugar). I'd rather see you boost your grain bill with more base malt to balance out some of those hops. I look at it like this: my very informal definition of an IPA is a pale ale, with more of everything. With over 16 oz hops, your beer strikes me as unbalanced, even without the initial bittering addition.
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:12 AM   #4
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i would add a 60 min and 30 min addition. then save some of the late additions and dry hop with 2 - 3 oz. here was my last ipa hop sched

0.25Chinook [13.00 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 5 8.7 IBUs
0.75 oz Centennial [10.80 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 6 15.1 IBUs
1.00 oz Cascade [9.10 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 8 11.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Centennial [10.80 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 9 9.5 IBUs
1.00 oz Cascade [9.10 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 10 4.4 IBUs
1.00 oz Cascade [9.10 %] - Aroma Steep 30.0 min Hop 11 0.0 IBUs
2.00 oz Centennial [10.80 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 13 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Cascade [9.10 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 14 0.0 IBUs
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:29 AM   #5
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I think the lb of sugar is a good idea in order to dry the beer out a bit and showcase the hops. I like the idea of using citra and centenial together...I imagine that they will play together well. I agree that you probably need a FWH or 60 minute addition otherwise you'll have fruit punch. I'd suggest using an ounce of magnum at 60. Also, dry hopping is the halmark of the style...you may want to reduce some of the quantity of your late additions and instead use them to dry hop. Otherwise it looks quite nice.
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:42 AM   #6
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After reading through Designing Great Beers, I wouldn't be too concerned about the sugar - you're only talking about 5.7% of your grist, which is well within acceptable limits for the style. I'd say stick to your plan on that count.

On the hops; first of all, once you add the sugar, assuming you're looking at 65% efficiency, you're going to bump your gravity up to 1.074 - 66 IBU's might quite not stand up to 1.074 OG in an IPA, you might want to get that closer to a 1:1 or 1.1:1 ratio (get it closer to 70-80 IBU). And also, that hop bill looks EXPENSIVE!!! Throw an ounce of Bravo or some other high alpha in there at 60 or 45, so you can reduce those other additions to an ounce or so - you're still going to get plenty of hop flavor and aroma (I've got an IPA dry hopping right now that I did exactly this with, can't wait to get this in a keg!!!) - and you'll save yourself a ton of money, let alone the amount of muck you'll save yourself in the bottom of your kettle and/or your fermenter! And you can still dry hop the hell out of the beer if you want.
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:26 PM   #7
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I agree on the hops, if for no other reason because you are going to have so much material floating in your kettle that you may have problems transferring to the fermenter. I do like the hop selection - I use that combination in a smaller (1.055) american pale ale all the time and I love it. I use:
60 - 1 oz. cent.
30 - 1oz. centennial
5 - 1 oz. cascade
0 - 1oz. cascade
0 - 1oz. citra
Dry hop for 5-7 days with 2 oz. citra.

Those hops make for a great combination.
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:29 PM   #8
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I gotta go against the grain here! I've been during "hopbursting" quite a bit and love the results.

If you have the hops, and can afford that many of them, do it!

I would consider dropping the honey malt and carapils, though, if you want to use sugar to help thin and dry the beer. They would be at cross purposes here!

I'd probably drop the honey malt, keep the carapils, and leave out the sugar. Keep the hop schedule as is!
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:14 PM   #9
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I have to agree with Yooper here, it works, but you can NOT have a malty sweet beer...you need to cut at least the honey malt, and at least do half the carapils.
You can do a late hop beer like this but you want it to be a little dryer malt wise. You will need some good dry hopping additions, at least 2 and stick with the citra and centennial theme.
The only other suggestion I would give is to probably use a High AA hop at the 15 min addition most cascades are around 5% and you do want some bittering, If your citra or Centennial are 9% + then use them...
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:16 PM   #10
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I dare not contradict the queen..but Ive noticed that a 1/4 pound of honey makes a nice lead in to the citra hops. It kind of sets the stage for the passion fruit flavor.


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