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Old 07-24-2012, 04:29 AM   #1
mendozer
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Default DIY ceramic tap handle

i have a buddy who likes making ceramic things and has a small kiln. he said he's make me a tap handle and wanted dimensions. What's a typical one?

I'm thinking 6-8 inches long and 3-4 inches in circumference? (no puns allowed here!)

The base will be set into wood, but what's the size of the bottom of most handles, 1" diameter?


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Old 07-24-2012, 04:34 AM   #2
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At the most.


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Old 07-24-2012, 05:09 AM   #3
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i know the nut on the bottom is 3/8" - 16 thread. what's the actual base diameter? Anyone make a wooden handle and can measure the bottom for me?
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:41 AM   #4
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Get a couple of the nuts/inserts for making tap handles before your friend starts the ceramic project. That way he can make the proper cavity for attaching the handle to the threaded portion.
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:04 PM   #5
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so the nut would go straight into the ceramic? i was thinking he'd glue it to a wooden base. on a side note, what are those metal bottoms called? not the insert nuts, but the bases
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mendozer View Post
i have a buddy who likes making ceramic things and has a small kiln. he said he's make me a tap handle and wanted dimensions. What's a typical one?

I'm thinking 6-8 inches long and 3-4 inches in circumference? (no puns allowed here!)

The base will be set into wood, but what's the size of the bottom of most handles, 1" diameter?

THIS SOUNDS AWESOME......

Look, I'm not trying to be a d!@.... really...., you said he makes "ceramics things" and has a "small kiln". Is it just a hobby or is he a potter?
If he hasn't been doing it that long he may not know that a stronger ceramic body (stoneware or porcelain) will be needed and fired at a much higher temperature (at least ^6 maybe higher) to make sure it's hard enough. Otherwise it could break pretty easy after a few uses. He prolly knows this but again depending on the clay body and it's "shrinkage" the place to attach screws and such will need to be built 1/8 - 1/4 larger to allow for it to be fitted post firing. He also needs to build it in a fashion that it's easily glazable after the initial bisque firing and can stand in the kiln without glazing it to the shelf. Again, I'm sure he knows what he's doing and I know this sounds douchie but these are some things to think about otherwise it could be a complete pain in the ass getting it right......

I might try this myself.....let me know if you have any questions I would be glad to help where I can.....

V
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:37 PM   #7
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he used to make pipes for potters, very decorative ones. i'm sure he knows how to do it right. if not, oh well, it doesn't cost me anything.

This is the second reference to a fitting. what fittings are people using on the bottoms of the handles? (not the insert nut)
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:16 PM   #8
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Is this what you are looking for????

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gold-Beer-ta...item3cc40a6e04
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arcticz1 View Post
Is this what you are looking for????

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gold-Beer-ta...item3cc40a6e04
yes! that's the piece i'm thinking of, a ferrule. So previous posters are saying to compensate for ceramic shrinkage and since the top thread is 5/16, go 1/8 or 1/4 bigger than 5/16?

But how would the ceramic go into the ferrule? Seems easier to glue to wood that goes into the ferrule
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Old 07-25-2012, 03:04 PM   #10
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Make the ceramic piece to fit then let it dry on it (put a piece of papertowel between it and the ferule) and let it dry very slowly. Once fired do not glaze that section for better adhesion to the epoxy. Make the lower part of the clay piece thicker to compensate for the stress on it....alternatively you could make the tap handle in a way that a piece of "all thread" could be glued into it then that attached to the ferule......this is how we balance large sculptures on small exhibit stands.... Use a two part epoxy ( I have used 2 part expoxy to glue hangers to large platters of 15lbs or more and they are still hanging on the wall after two years) not gorilla glue or liquid nails they are too elastic, JB weld is a good choice as well. Allow it to dry for a couple of days....also the epoxy has the tendancy to "twist" as it drys... so, say you have a "front" to your tap handle...put a piece of painters tape around the ferule and tap handle so your "front" doesn't become your "side"....good luck....

V


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