Originally Posted by dallasdb
A couple guys mentioned it being hard to install. Not sure if you use this method but it goes on like butter if you just put the end in HOT water for 30 seconds before installing. Makes it pliable and slips on easy.
I have a process that involves boiling water, which makes is relatively easy to install, but I wouldn't exactly say it goes on like butter. I have a metal cone to stretch it out first, enough to get it barely started, then multiple dips to get a 1/8" push or so each time. I found than dipping too deep, or dipping too long, softened too much line, and the line would collapse when I went for a push. For swivel nuts/barbs, you will also need some kind of male flare fitting to be able to push on the barb effectively.
There are small differences in the OD of different makes/runs of barbs. Even the shape of the barb makes a big difference. That may be why yours went on more easily. However, make sure you are using true 3/16" ID barbs. The naming convention in the bev world is more jacked up than plumbing parts. In most shops, a 3/16" barb is actually ~1/4" OD. It is meant to go on soft vinyl and keep the ID constant in the line/barb junction for less foaming and better flow. Some shops use the OD for their naming convention, so a 3/16" barb for them is actually a 1/8" ID.
For hard 3/16" line, like the barrier line, most shops recommend 1/8" barbs (1/8" ID, 3/16" OD), because it goes on easier. The price paid is a flow restriction, and foaming issues.
Going to the trouble of installing this stuff is well worth it. For a new installation it is a no brainer, considering it is both cheaper and better than using vinyl.