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Old 09-25-2012, 06:31 PM   #51
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I have crushed two batches so far, yesterday did a ipa BIAB that was supposed to have a 1.059 OG ended up hitting 1.070 with the gap set at .040" (verified with a millwright .040 stainless shim). I really like it so far it's pretty damn nice for the price.
What was your efficiency for each batch? Did you double crush or just single?


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Old 09-26-2012, 12:36 AM   #52
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The Cereal Killer has met or exceeded all my expectations. I set the gap at .035" and with a single crush, consistent 75-80% efficiencies are the norm. For 90 bucks shipped, you can't go wrong. I highly recommend this mill.


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Old 09-27-2012, 12:56 PM   #53
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Just used my Cereal Killer for the first time last weekend. Worked great and my efficiency did go up some but I have a question.

I have looked in about 6 different auto parts stores and cannot find "blade" type gap gauges that go to .040". Most only go up to about .030" and all that I have seen jump to wires style when they get as large as about .035-.040. For now, I've used Cajun ingenuity and after about 2 hours of searching through my shed with a digital caliper, I found a small section of sheet metal that measured .040" thick and used that. Problem is, I can't try a smaller gap without making another extended search.....

Question: For those of you that have blade type gauges, that range up to .040", where did you get them?????? Help please!
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:52 PM   #54
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Question: For those of you that have blade type gauges, that range up to .040", where did you get them?????? Help please!
Usual practice is to get 2-3 blades with thicknesses that add up to the value you want (e.g., .025 and .015) and use them together. At least, that's what we used to do when setting spark plug gaps, hope I don't give any machinists a heart attack!
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Old 09-27-2012, 03:32 PM   #55
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I thought about using multiple blades but I wasn't sure if the assembly could be taken apart. Are the blades removable?
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:00 PM   #56
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You don't have to remove the "blades." Just take 2 that total up to .035" slide them in between the rollers, push the rollers together and you will have the perfect gap. Make sure that you use the gauge on each end of the rollers as you adjust. BTW--.035" is the perfect gap for this mill!
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Old 09-30-2012, 04:22 PM   #57
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The handle is indeed useless, I don't know what they were thinking when they designed this. I found out that my drill had died when I went to mill my grain Fiday and thus I had to mill only using the handle. I'm not a small guy, but grinding around 9 pounds of grain took around 10-15 minutes and it was HARD. I had set the mill at .036" but it was such a pita that I reverted back to the factory setting. Still got 70+ efficiency though (with my LHBS, I used to get 60% on good days).
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:14 PM   #58
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Well, I attempted to adjust my gap down from .040 to .035 and had a little trouble. When I would tighten the thumb screws down, the adjustment knobs kept jumping back to the .040 mark (I marked it for reference). Anyone else experience this?

Finally got it pretty close to where I wanted it though.

Oh, I also deteremined that a grain mill will not function properly with the drill/motor running in reverse! I use a cordless drill and apparently the last time I used it, I was removing screws. I was almost in a panic state trying to figure out what happened to my mill as it was just spinning and no grain being crushed....Then it struck me!
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:43 PM   #59
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... except it has a tacky machine oil residue or corrosion resistant film all over.
That sticky oil/wax coating is usually a dead ringer for "made in china" or at least made overseas and shipped in container by sea. It's there to protect steel parts from corrosion in the high humidity of a marine environment. Just go to Harbor Freight or any discount auto parts brand and touch anything and that looks like steel or cast iron you'll know how to id it.

It comes off really easily with carb cleaner, brake cleaner, or any half decent solvent. Just make sure you don't wash the lube out of the bearings as they likely have only dust caps and not good liquid tight seals in them.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:25 PM   #60
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Well, I attempted to adjust my gap down from .040 to .035 and had a little trouble. When I would tighten the thumb screws down, the adjustment knobs kept jumping back to the .040 mark (I marked it for reference). Anyone else experience this?
I did, what I ended up doing is measuring the error then compensating the adjustment by that amount so it tightened where I wanted it. In your case, set the gap to .030" and tighten so it ends up at .035. A cup point setscrew would probably solve the problem.


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