Spike Brewing Giveaway - New v3 Kettle

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Old 12-17-2012, 09:18 PM   #131
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I just got mine yesterday and I'm pretty stoked to start using it. It's inaugural brew will be my first 10 gallon batch so I'm pretty excited to grind my own grain at home so I can get better efficiency out of my BIAB setup. I think I might stop by the LHBS tonight to buy a pound of 2-row or so to run through it as a test. I'll make a mini BIAB mash with it to check efficiency of my crush. It will also be a good time to test out my new refractometer too.
I just did a test batch with a pound of two row crushed at a 0.032 gap and 2 quarts of water and an hour mash, I got 80% efficiency which is higher than my last two batches. I'm pretty stoked about the increased efficiency. Should I be shooting for higher than this? I always thought I heard that around 80% is what you should be shooting for. I'll post pictures of my crush later.


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Old 12-17-2012, 09:26 PM   #132
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personally, i'd be less worried about getting a specific number, and more worried about hitting a given number consistently. 80% is a high and round number. get yourself set up to where you're always getting 80% and plug that into your brewing software - consistent beer awaits you!


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Old 02-28-2013, 03:28 AM   #133
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That sticky oil/wax coating is usually a dead ringer for "made in china" or at least made overseas and shipped in container by sea. It's there to protect steel parts from corrosion in the high humidity of a marine environment. Just go to Harbor Freight or any discount auto parts brand and touch anything and that looks like steel or cast iron you'll know how to id it.

It comes off really easily with carb cleaner, brake cleaner, or any half decent solvent. Just make sure you don't wash the lube out of the bearings as they likely have only dust caps and not good liquid tight seals in them.
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Old 01-15-2016, 01:59 PM   #134
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Hi Guys,

I got my mill last week and already used it to crush wheat with poor results. Not sure if all the mills has the same flaw but the one posted here and mine have a small gap in the roller that is not attached to the handle... the perfect gap for the small wheat grains to block the roller. My question is... Can you move the rollers so the space is equal in both sides? Besides that I quite like it and works quite well (at least when using barley).

Thanks!
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Old 01-15-2016, 02:19 PM   #135
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Cosmoline

Im kinda surprised more of the brewing stuff that comes from china isnt covered with cosmoline. Like ss brewing / bru gear stuff and even the blichmann kettles? My point is, we generally seem bash the inexpensive stuff that comes from china for being made there, but seem to want to pretend most the more expensive stuff doesn't come from there too? Not to say anyone directly was making negative comments here but I guess im just tired of constantly defending my purchases against people who own chinese Iphones and chinese made stuff they just paid more for under the illusion it was made elswhere.. Yes my mill was cheaper and it has nothing to hide about where its from unlike say a korean made deawoo resold here as a chevy..

I'll point out that the cereal killer closest competitor brags about "assembling" its mills in the USA from chinese parts and it is inferior with many issues and complaints of worn out knurling on the rollers in a short period of time..

That "assembled" gets reinterpreted of course by owners as "made in the USA" these days since we see things the way it fits us at the time.

stepping off my soapbox now..

BTW I love my motorized cereal killer... bought it a couple years ago for $99 with free shipping and its been an awesome investment. used some pulleys and adapters from tractor supply and a gear reduction motor and the thing kicks ass. I've only gone through 7 or 8 sacks of grain plus specialty grain so far but no signs of wear at all yet.
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Old 01-19-2016, 04:53 PM   #136
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BTW I love my motorized cereal killer... bought it a couple years ago for $99 with free shipping and its been an awesome investment. used some pulleys and adapters from tractor supply and a gear reduction motor and the thing kicks ass. I've only gone through 7 or 8 sacks of grain plus specialty grain so far but no signs of wear at all yet.
Have any tips for adding a motor to the mill? Instead of having a drill permanently affixed to it, I think I'd like to go the route you did.
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Old 01-20-2016, 01:17 PM   #137
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Have any tips for adding a motor to the mill? Instead of having a drill permanently affixed to it, I think I'd like to go the route you did.
Yeah, if you find a large DC motor like I did you can make a super cheap AC to DC variable voltage controller with a $3 bridge rectifier and a regular wall light dimmer switch.. it sounds more complicated than it is (very easy to wire up and gave me speed control with the dimmer. you could get fancy with smoothing capacitors and all that but no need when driving a motor.
I have been using this version 2 setup not for about 6 months and it is flawless... my older, smaller ac motor was too weak to relably get through just roasted grain.

I cut up an old particle board entertainment center and made a cheap cabinet to mount everything and house the bucket underneath...

pulleys are available at TSC stores or ebay... I did have to make a plastic spacer for the oddball shaft size on the mill and then used the setscrew on the pulley adapter to hold it all in place... I just found a piece of plastic tube that worked. use a bigger pulley on the motor than the mill to make the mill grind faster or a larger pulley to make it go slower depending on whether you have a gear reduction motor which is better (thats what I found) just remember a 10 speed bike and how the different size sprockets changed things dramatically.
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Old 01-20-2016, 05:18 PM   #138
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post
Yeah, if you find a large DC motor like I did you can make a super cheap AC to DC variable voltage controller with a $3 bridge rectifier and a regular wall light dimmer switch.. it sounds more complicated than it is (very easy to wire up and gave me speed control with the dimmer. you could get fancy with smoothing capacitors and all that but no need when driving a motor.
I have been using this version 2 setup not for about 6 months and it is flawless... my older, smaller ac motor was too weak to relably get through just roasted grain.

I cut up an old particle board entertainment center and made a cheap cabinet to mount everything and house the bucket underneath...

pulleys are available at TSC stores or ebay... I did have to make a plastic spacer for the oddball shaft size on the mill and then used the setscrew on the pulley adapter to hold it all in place... I just found a piece of plastic tube that worked. use a bigger pulley on the motor than the mill to make the mill grind faster or a larger pulley to make it go slower depending on whether you have a gear reduction motor which is better (thats what I found) just remember a 10 speed bike and how the different size sprockets changed things dramatically.
Very cool! Thanks for all of the information. Gonna give it a shot myself.


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