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Old 07-10-2012, 10:12 PM   #1
CJBrewVT
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Feb 2011
Rutland, VT
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http://bostonheatingsupply.com/SP10868GL.aspx

I purchased one of these from Boston Heating Supply. Came loose in the box and looks used. The model number is faded out. Anyone else order one of these from them? I was expecting retail packaging.

Also, does it matter which terminal is hooked up to hot? Neutral? I know the answer is no for 240V elements, but not sure for 120V.

Oops! One more question. Should I try to scrub off the dark outer layer to get to the stainless steel underneath?

 
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Old 07-10-2012, 10:19 PM   #2
Dan_HBT
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Aug 2010
Pittsburgh, PA
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I have no info on the quality of items at Boston Heating Supply but as for the wiring it does not matter for most loads which terminal neutral and hot go to. AC, or alternating current, flows back and forth so it doesn't matter what wire goes where. DC, or direct current, on the other hand has a definite A to B path and needs to be wired correctly

 
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:28 PM   #3
P-J
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Mar 2010
Charlotte, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJBrewVT View Post
http://bostonheatingsupply.com/SP10868GL.aspx

I purchased one of these from Boston Heating Supply. Came loose in the box and looks used. The model number is faded out. Anyone else order one of these from them? I was expecting retail packaging.

Also, does it matter which terminal is hooked up to hot? Neutral? I know the answer is no for 240V elements, but not sure for 120V.

Oops! One more question. Should I try to scrub off the dark outer layer to get to the stainless steel underneath?
My personal opinion: Do not mess with it. Call the vendor and have them replace it.

BTW: The 'dark layer' is part of the fabrication of the element. Clean it but don't "scrub" it. It is an Incoloy element after all..

P-J

 
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:39 PM   #4
brew-n-que
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Jan 2012
Pensacola, FL
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I ordered two of those from Boston Heating Suppply, they came packed loose as well. They worked fine.

That said, what is your intended use for them? I tried to use them in my eHLT and eBoil kettle, but they are just too small for a 5 gallon batch. Heating the strike water took well over an hour, and the boil was very weak.

I pulled those out and replaced them with 5500W 240V camco elements...MUCH better.

 
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Old 07-14-2012, 02:03 AM   #5
Dgonza9
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May 2010
Evanston, Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brew-n-que View Post
I ordered two of those from Boston Heating Suppply, they came packed loose as well. They worked fine.

That said, what is your intended use for them? I tried to use them in my eHLT and eBoil kettle, but they are just too small for a 5 gallon batch. Heating the strike water took well over an hour, and the boil was very weak.

I pulled those out and replaced them with 5500W 240V camco elements...MUCH better.
That's odd. I do 11 gallon batches with 4000W and it's a solid boil. 2000W is about perfect for a 5 gallon batch. What are you boiling in?

On a side note, I wonder if you are really getting what you paid for. I ordered a 1500W 120V element from Plumbingsupply.com. It was supposed to be ULWD. Well, after some scorching issues I got a LWD element from Rheem. I'ts more than twice the size of the supposedly ULWD element I had previously.

A number of people have complained about this. So I honestly wouldn't be surprised if you did not get what you ordered. If you are boiling in a keggle, 2000W should be fine. 5500W for a 5 gallons batch is way too much power, no?
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Old 07-14-2012, 12:43 PM   #6
brew-n-que
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Jan 2012
Pensacola, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dgonza9

That's odd. I do 11 gallon batches with 4000W and it's a solid boil. 2000W is about perfect for a 5 gallon batch. What are you boiling in?

On a side note, I wonder if you are really getting what you paid for. I ordered a 1500W 120V element from Plumbingsupply.com. It was supposed to be ULWD. Well, after some scorching issues I got a LWD element from Rheem. I'ts more than twice the size of the supposedly ULWD element I had previously.

A number of people have complained about this. So I honestly wouldn't be surprised if you did not get what you ordered. If you are boiling in a keggle, 2000W should be fine. 5500W for a 5 gallons batch is way too much power, no?
I boil in a 9 gallon stainless kettle. Even with a reflectix jacket, the boil was weak and took forever to get up to temp.

Not sure what you mean by "too big" Water/wort heats up quick, then I use a PID to throttle power to maintain the boil (usually around 60%)

I could have gone with a smaller element, but I plan on upgrading to 20 gallon kettles in the future, so wanted to size the electrical components for 10 gallon batches.

It is possible they sent me a smaller element, I could hook one up and measure the current draw to test.
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Old 07-14-2012, 06:41 PM   #7
Dgonza9
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May 2010
Evanston, Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brew-n-que View Post
I boil in a 9 gallon stainless kettle. Even with a reflectix jacket, the boil was weak and took forever to get up to temp.

Not sure what you mean by "too big" Water/wort heats up quick, then I use a PID to throttle power to maintain the boil (usually around 60%)

I could have gone with a smaller element, but I plan on upgrading to 20 gallon kettles in the future, so wanted to size the electrical components for 10 gallon batches.

It is possible they sent me a smaller element, I could hook one up and measure the current draw to test.
Ah, so a 9 gallon BK means you are doing 6 gallon batches? I'm not controlling my elements with a PID. Mine are on full power so I have to be sure the wattage is what I need.

Are you boiling 7 gallons or so, then?
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Kegged:

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Old 07-15-2012, 11:54 AM   #8
brew-n-que
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Jan 2012
Pensacola, FL
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Yes, my pre boil volume is 7 gallons.... after evaporation and trub loss I usually only get a bit over 5 gallons in the keg.
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lupulin threshold shift \lu·pu·lin thresh·old shift\ n
1. When a once extraordinarily hoppy beer now seems pedestrian.
2. The phenomenon a person has when craving more bitterness in beer.
3. The long-term exposure to extremely hoppy beers; if excessive or prolonged, a habitual dependence on hops will occur.
4. When a "Double IPA" just is not enough.

 
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:38 AM   #9
ekjohns
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May 2009
IL
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I just purchased the 2000W rheem from bost heating supply and it heats the exact same as my old 1650W emerson. I am going to call Boston because I think they are selling 1650W and 2000W and something seems shady

 
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Old 02-17-2013, 02:30 AM   #10
orangehero
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Apr 2010
Northeast
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The specifications should be printed on the plastic head of the element.

You can also check it with a multimeter. If its 120V, 2000W, it should read about 7.2 ohms.

 
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