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Old 07-10-2012, 06:18 PM   #1
907_fellow
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Jul 2012
Soldotna, Alaska
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Hello there. After falling in love with this site and looking at dozens of keezers, I have decided to attempt my own. I purchased a 7.2 cubic foot magic chef off Craigslist for 125$. I plan on doing a coffin set up. Haven't yet ordered my plumbing and conversion supplies so any input on that would be greatly appreciated but I plan on running 3 1/6 barrel sankey commercial beers inside the freezer with a 10 lb co2 tank. I started building the base last night and will make my first attempt at attaching pictures below. I look forward to continuing to Continuing to log my progress on here.

7.2 magic chef

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Outside of freezer.

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Base completed, minus the wheels.

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Started on my sides.

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That's all for now. Can't wait to get off work!

 
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:54 PM   #2
Rivenin
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Dec 2010
McMinnville, Oregon
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lookin good!
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:24 AM   #3
907_fellow
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Jul 2012
Soldotna, Alaska
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Well got my frame completed this evening, still need caster wheels for it though. Home depot only had some that cost 45$, that seemed like to much so I'm shopping around tomorrow. Also tomorrow, I am planning on attaching the skin to the outside. I have tongue & groove pine here im going to use. Totally got the idea from hoppopotomus so all the credit goes his way for that idea. I am going to do it vertically, rather then horizontal however so it will look a lil different. That is all for now.

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I guess I will need to run a couple more 2x4s around the outside horizontally to attach the tongue & groove to real quick tomorrow too.

 
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:25 PM   #4
BeardedIdiot
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Jun 2012
Louisville, Kentucky
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Rather than using 2x4's horizontally to attach the tongue and groove boards, just use furring strips, or 1x2 boards. No need for the bulk of 2x4's, as they are just to help provide a nailing surface for the boards. You could use 1x3 or even 1x4 boards if you're really worried about it though.
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:17 PM   #5
907_fellow
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Jul 2012
Soldotna, Alaska
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Ya you are right. I came to that conclusion last night as well. 1x2s would be a lot easier and wouldn't make the cabinet any bigger really. My plan is to get the bottom cabinet finished in the next couple days then start working on the lid. Going to order all the keg conversion parts on Friday when I get paid. I think I am gonna have to run low profile sanke taps because I only got about 27" of height inside the freezer. In retrospect, I should have put a collar on. Oh well.

 
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Old 07-12-2012, 06:04 AM   #6
907_fellow
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Jul 2012
Soldotna, Alaska
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Siding and 2" caster wheels on tonight.

Frames up for tongue & groove siding
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Siding on
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:30 AM   #7
907_fellow
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Jul 2012
Soldotna, Alaska
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More progress tonight. Got the top on and attached. Did some of the trim for the top as well.

View of the top
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Top again
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Top trim
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Planning on takin the dive and ordering all the actual keg supplies tomorrow. Looking like 700-800$ worth.
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Old 07-13-2012, 04:33 AM   #8
60sd
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Jun 2012
Manteca, CA
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Forgive me for saying, as I am but a wet behind the ears noob, but I just finished looking for kegerator parts and found that amazon seems to have pretty good deals, assuming that there is nothing on craigslist in your area. I saw two and three faucet towers on there for a fraction of the price of other sites. I am a big fan of supporting my LHBS, but when money's tight and there is that big of a difference sometimes you gotta do it. The project looks good!

 
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:20 AM   #9
Elfmaze
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Oct 2008
Allentown, PA
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It looks like you have some good space between the freezers walls and the wood wall. Make sure there is a way to vent the hot air. A chest freezers skin needs to breath to dissipate the heat. nice woodworking!

 
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:00 PM   #10
907_fellow
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Jul 2012
Soldotna, Alaska
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The back of the cabinet has been left open, plus the 3" or so space left around the freezer so I am not too worried about over-heating issues. If it becomes a problem, I will throw some cheap fans in the cabinet. Time for some trim work this weekend. Going to do black painted trim around the cabinet then start building the coffin.

What size holes should be drilled in the coffin for the shanks to fit threw? What spacing between shanks is desired? What kinda dimensions are people building their coffins? I'm going to run three taps if that helps. I also want to be able to run bar-style tap handles so is there clearance issues between the top of the coffin and the tap handles to insure the tap handle will open and close fully?

Thanks for the input everyone.

 
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