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Old 08-20-2012, 05:10 PM   #61
SMc0724
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Why did you choose SSRs over transistors for >6 Volts DC?

 
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Old 08-20-2012, 05:54 PM   #62
jblizz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helibrewer View Post
I found this Android-to-Arduino BT shield...looks promising.
http://www.buildcircuit.net/product/...duino-shield-2
I have been thinking about picking up this shield that has 4 onboard relays plus a bee socket so you could use it with a bluetooth xbee or a wifi xbee. Would be a nice configurable item if you wanted to be able to switch to wifi for greater range..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006G0L8QI
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Old 08-28-2012, 12:26 AM   #63
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Adeering-

I take it that you'll be wired from your Android to the Arduino? You're not going wireless? If so, why not? Was there any particular reason you decided to go wired? I'm curious because I'm tossing around the idea of doing something similar but via BT (preferably BT 4.0).

I just finished watching a vid on the Arduino blog and the interviewee mentioned that RedPark is close to releasing a shield for BT 4.0. http://arduino.cc/blog/2012/05/02/io...rduino-a-talk/

 
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:14 AM   #64
Adeering
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I decided to go with wired because it required no extra shield and I dont plan on needing to take my android away from the brewery during the brew process. Im not going fully automated as I enjoy the manual part of brewing, just want the control of the electronics. So will still be right there and didnt see a need to try and make it so where I could move the tablet away. For the type of data bluetooth would work perfectly and is a viable option, I just chose to go with wired.
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:41 PM   #65
Adeering
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So finally finished the control box and everything is working on the arduino side and controlling the SSRs, I dont have the 240V installed in my house so cant test the plugs to make sure its working all the way through but connections are good and everything works great. The 12x12x6 is a tight fit but managed to fit it all in. The inside is a mess of wires as the box was to small to fit nice cable ties and terminals in. So didnt take pics of the inside but heres the ouside painted a dark blue with all switches and the LCD and joystick control. Gonna get the android side done while deployed and finished when i get back. The wires in the pic are for the elements the sleeves for all the cables.

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Old 09-01-2012, 09:48 PM   #66
Adeering
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And heres the side of the case with the plugs, the holes were hard to get the right sized hole saw for the plugs, and since they werent flanged (found these for real cheap on ebay). Used some stuff called Sugru which air cures to mount them and fill in the gaps. Came out pretty good. Need to clean main power outlet as the gorilla glue expanded a little more than expected and came out the sides. So need to clean it up.





Overall it couldve come out a little nicer but it will do the job and once I order the tags for everything it will be a little easier to look at. And the android interface will make it so much better. Considering I had to improvise on all the tools it works.
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Old 10-05-2012, 04:47 AM   #67
Adeering
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Ok so stuck overseas for another 3 months but I just placed an order for some stout tanks. Decided to have a nice easy setup instead of trying to install all the ports myself. This is the summary of what I got.

Boil Kettle:
15 Gal with tangential inlet
-Element port added
-Thermowell moved to rear and lowered to allow for easier measurement of 5 gal batches

Mash Tun:
15 Gal Mash Tun with bottom drain
-Rims Module included

Gonna install the elements and temp probes and should be good to go. Will need to still build a housing for the wiring for the elements but have that figured out already.
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:45 AM   #68
simba123
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check out my build using the Arduino. Never missed a beat!

Using DS18B20 temperature ICs which gives me a precision of 0.1F...

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/bre...rewery-306571/

Soon I am planning to switch to a Raspberry Pi and I am very close to make a video of the brew day.
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:13 PM   #69
audger
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., Connecticut
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i know you are already off and running, but i wanted to comment on this... maybe it will give someone else an idea of what is required.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adeering View Post
Also not sure how many pins the things like temp probes and switches will take up

Heres the inputs I see having:
2 - temp probes
2 - basic on/off switches for pump
2 - ARM/DISARM switches for elements (idea will be when using them manually to flip these switches to arm the elements then use the LCD display/buttons to set temp and the PID library will control the output to turn elements on and off)
4 - buttons to control the LCD screen and set temps (Mode, Up, Down, Set)
1 - USB interface (this is already taken care of by the Arduino Mega ADK, this can interface with android devices through USB, which is perfect)

10 - total not counting the USB

Here are the outputs I see having:
2 - SSRs for the pump on/off control - assuming will need 2 pins
2 - SSRs for the element on/off that will be controlled by the PID library - 2 pins
1 - the USB interface can both send and receive so that will talk to the android
1 - LCD display to display whats happening and select temps for elements to hold - needs 11 pins
4 - Lights to show when pumps/elements are on
1 - Buzzer/Alarm for signalling temp has been reached

10 - total not counting the USB
there is a lot in that list that doesnt need to, or shouldnt, be taking up a pin on the microcontroller.

1-temp probes. you can chain up to several hundred DS18x20 temp sensors on a single input pin.
0- basic on/off switches for pump- pumps can be manually controlled, and probably should be anyway so that they arent turned off when you arent around, lose prime, and start up and burn out on their own. you shouldnt need to be cycling the pumps more than a few times in a 6 hour brew day, so a manual switch should be fine. (unless you are going for 100% hands off automation...)
0 - ARM/DISARM switches for elements- this should be hard wired contactors with nothing in between to fail or have possible software bugs.
4 - buttons to control the LCD screen and set temps (Mode, Up, Down, Set)- OK
2 - USB interface- an atmega chip doesnt have on-board USB, so it uses two pins for TX/RX serial output. thisi is converted via intermediary chip to USB out

0 - SSRs for the pump on/off control- these should be on their own circuit; a simple on/off switch wired to power. an indicator light can be added directly after the switch.
2 - SSRs for the element on/off that will be controlled by the PID library -OK
11 - LCD display to display whats happening and select temps for elements to hold- OK (but there are many other ways to do this)
1- Buzzer/Alarm - OK

only thing im not sure about is the android interface. my guess would be that it will interface with either the serial TX/RX lines, or the FTDI chip that interfaces serial<>USB, so no additional pins are needed.

so you will need 10 pins, plus the LCD display for a total of 21. there are ways of driving an LCD with 5-8 pins, depending on the size of the display and on any intermediary controllers attached to it. you can also have the arduino stream the data to something else, so you wouldnt need 11 extra pins. so this number could be reduced if needed.

so this could be done with an arduino mega if you wanted to keep the 11-pin LCD display, or even with a arduino pro mini if you had some other way of displaying the data (like on a PC or something, streamed out via serial/USB).

 
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:52 PM   #70
jpalarchio
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An I2C backpack (~$10) for the display could reduce the pin count.

 
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