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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing > Critique/Tips First Partial Mash Recipe
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:21 PM   #1
GioGomez2010
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Default Critique/Tips First Partial Mash Recipe

Hey all,

I had been trying to move from extract and steeping grains and so yesterday I finally went through with it and made my first partial mash. I used BeerSmith to calculate the OG and FG. BeerSmith, using 65% efficiency gave me an estimated OG of 1.080 of which I had 1.073. (Any tips on how to calculate efficiency would be appreciated for my next go around Haha) Overall, I'm just looking for some recipe tips, critiques, etc. Do you guys think I should dry hop with an extra oz. minimum to increase aroma? I'd appreciate any feedback. The recipe was an IPA style beer, and here are the ingredients:

6 lbs of LME
5 lbs of Pale Malt (2 Row)
1 lbs Crystal Malt 60 L
1 oz. Chinook Hops 75 Minutes
1 oz. Chinook Hops at 5 Minutes
1 oz. Chinooks Hops (Will Dry Hop for 10 Days)
Safale US-05

P.S. I made this using the BIAB sticky so thanks for the good info sir! Also, a shout out to WilsenBrewer who gave me good tips on crushing with a blender, since I don't have a mill as of yet.


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Old 07-05-2012, 05:28 PM   #2
ATXweirdobrew
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I would go ahead and only do a 60 minute boil and choose a hop with a higher alpha acid rating to make up for the shorter boil. This will help your OG readings by boiling off less water. I would go ahead and find a good aroma hop to dry hop in a secondary fermentor for about 2 weeks which will help with aroma and flavor. Your ingredients look great but I would use the following link to read into what each ingredient will do to your recipe and experiment around.


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Old 07-05-2012, 05:29 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GioGomez2010
P.S. I made this using the BIAB sticky so thanks for the good info sir! Also, a shout out to WilsenBrewer who gave me good tips on crushing with a blender, since I don't have a mill as of yet.
Totally gonna use this tip... As I do not have a mill yet, either...
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Old 07-05-2012, 06:11 PM   #4
bobbrews
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For American IPAs, I like to use lesser amounts of the very pale crystal malts (10-20 L) or none at all. Using 1 lb. of C60 is certainly not wrong, but it's definitely something that I would not do more than once after learning what it contributes. IMO, too much deep raisiny sweetness is uncharacteristic of the style. For partial mash IPAs, I like to use 0-5% light crystal. A simple sugar supplement of about 8-12% of the grist is also a good recommendation since it will help to dry out the beer and give you something more crisp. You'll want to use more of it than the typical 0-6% recommendation for an all-grain beer that does not use any extract which can impede the brewer's ability to reach a low preferred 1.015 FG (or better yet less) for the style.

Mashing below 151 F is important to me because the extract was most likely made at a higher temperature with added dextrins. So the lower mash temperature that you do will help to balance out the extract and make the wort more fermentable. You can certainly experiment with more than just American 2-row. That's the whole point of doing a partial mash IPA I think... to use something different than the base malt used in the extract. If I use British DME extract, I'll mash American 2-row, maybe 7% Light Munich, some Wheat Malt, etc. Or you can do the opposite and use American 2-row with Maris Otter, Pearl, Pils malt, Golden Promise, etc. etc. ~ I usually boil the beer for 60 minutes and add the extract around the 15 minute mark to boost hop utilization and decrease melanoidin formation... even under a full volume boil, which I tend to always do. I think full volume boils are very important, especially for the IPA style.

You have a 5 gallon batch here and only 3 oz. total hops in your recipe. In addition, you have more of a DIPA here, which requires more hops than your standard IPA. For American DIPAs, I would say 9-12 oz. total hops is average. I like to get anywhere from 20-60 IBUs with the first addition, maybe round it out at 30 minutes with another small addition, and then pound it with late addition hops and dryhops. Depending on the strength of the beer, dryhopping with pellets at the rate of 0.50 oz. to 1.00 oz. per gallon of beer is a good general guideline. Pellets offer more beneficial oils in a shorter amount of time than leaf hops, which is why I also use them for a warm whirlpool addition. Start experimenting with different hop combos to boost complexity.

Lastly, if you're going to continue brewing big OG beers, I would definitely recommend looking into liquid yeast starters vs. using dry yeast. Good luck and let us know how it turns out!
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Old 07-06-2012, 03:20 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbrews
For American IPAs, I like to use lesser amounts of the very pale crystal malts (10-20 L) or none at all. Using 1 lb. of C60 is certainly not wrong, but it's definitely something that I would not do more than once after learning what it contributes. IMO, too much deep raisiny sweetness is uncharacteristic of the style. For partial mash IPAs, I like to use 0-5% light crystal. A simple sugar supplement of about 8-12% of the grist is also a good recommendation since it will help to dry out the beer and give you something more crisp. You'll want to use more of it than the typical 0-6% recommendation for an all-grain beer that does not use any extract which can impede the brewer's ability to reach a low preferred 1.015 FG (or better yet less) for the style.

Mashing below 151 F is important to me because the extract was most likely made at a higher temperature with added dextrins. So the lower mash temperature that you do will help to balance out the extract and make the wort more fermentable. You can certainly experiment with more than just American 2-row. That's the whole point of doing a partial mash IPA I think... to use something different than the base malt used in the extract. If I use British DME extract, I'll mash American 2-row, maybe 7% Light Munich, some Wheat Malt, etc. Or you can do the opposite and use American 2-row with Maris Otter, Pearl, Pils malt, Golden Promise, etc. etc. ~ I usually boil the beer for 60 minutes and add the extract around the 15 minute mark to boost hop utilization and decrease melanoidin formation... even under a full volume boil, which I tend to always do. I think full volume boils are very important, especially for the IPA style.

You have a 5 gallon batch here and only 3 oz. total hops in your recipe. In addition, you have more of a DIPA here, which requires more hops than your standard IPA. For American DIPAs, I would say 9-12 oz. total hops is average. I like to get anywhere from 20-60 IBUs with the first addition, maybe round it out at 30 minutes with another small addition, and then pound it with late addition hops and dryhops. Depending on the strength of the beer, dryhopping with pellets at the rate of 0.50 oz. to 1.00 oz. per gallon of beer is a good general guideline. Pellets offer more beneficial oils in a shorter amount of time than leaf hops, which is why I also use them for a warm whirlpool addition. Start experimenting with different hop combos to boost complexity.

Lastly, if you're going to continue brewing big OG beers, I would definitely recommend looking into liquid yeast starters vs. using dry yeast. Good luck and let us know how it turns out!
Thanks for all the good tips gentlemen and thanks for all the good info Bobbrews! I just have a few questions. What hops are good to use at 60 minutes to get the higher bitterness in an IPA? And what do you recommend for the 30 minute hop addition for example? Also If I'm going to use sugar to dry it out do you mean 8-12% of the total lbs of fermentables? Again I appreciate all the help! Thanks!
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Old 07-06-2012, 04:11 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATXbrew View Post
I would go ahead and only do a 60 minute boil and choose a hop with a higher alpha acid rating to make up for the shorter boil. This will help your OG readings by boiling off less water. I would go ahead and find a good aroma hop to dry hop in a secondary fermentor for about 2 weeks which will help with aroma and flavor. Your ingredients look great but I would use the following link to read into what each ingredient will do to your recipe and experiment around.
Hey ATX,

Will definitely look into those different hops to help out with my brew. Do you have the link that you mention in your quote? Thanks for the help!
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Old 07-06-2012, 12:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GioGomez2010 View Post
Thanks for all the good tips gentlemen and thanks for all the good info Bobbrews! I just have a few questions. What hops are good to use at 60 minutes to get the higher bitterness in an IPA? And what do you recommend for the 30 minute hop addition for example? Also If I'm going to use sugar to dry it out do you mean 8-12% of the total lbs of fermentables? Again I appreciate all the help! Thanks!
You're welcome. You could use a lot of hops for bittering an American IPA, but I prefer high alpha Pacific Northwest hops like Columbus, Warrior, Chinook, Summit, Horizon, Nugget, etc. ~ The thing about these earlier additions (60-30 min.) is that much of their character is stripped and not all that noticeable in the final beer. That is why I avoid using the real expensive/rare hops early on; especially since they're so good when used late and in the dryhop.

Regarding the 8-12%, here would be an example of what I mean:

50% Muntons Extra Light DME
35% American 2-row
10% Corn Sugar
5% Briess C10
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Old 07-06-2012, 02:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GioGomez2010 View Post
Hey ATX,

Will definitely look into those different hops to help out with my brew. Do you have the link that you mention in your quote? Thanks for the help!
Sure, sorry for not posting it originally. Here is a great post about almost all ingredients you can run into and descriptions. Happy experimenting!!! http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/ingr...-redux-107308/


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