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Old 07-04-2012, 09:54 PM   #1
sethhobrin
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Jan 2012
Oak Creek, WI
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I need to recirculate my boiling wort through my pump and chiller to sanitize before transferring to my carboy.

I was thinking about adding this: http://morebeer.com/view_product/197...ot_-_Stainless

does anyone know what size greenlee punch would be most appropriate? I don't want to use step bit for the hole. Or if there is a better weldless ball valve kit I should be using please let me know.

 
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Old 07-04-2012, 10:50 PM   #2
Double-R
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Mar 2010
Newburgh,NY
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Dont know if this helps..

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ma...ter-tun?page=3

GreenLee 13/16" punch to create a 13/16" diameter hole for the ball valve.


But i did it with a harbor-fright step bit..Then did this for bulk head.. it works great

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/3-we...lkhead-166778/
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Old 07-04-2012, 10:56 PM   #3
sethhobrin
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Jan 2012
Oak Creek, WI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double-R View Post
Dont know if this helps..

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ma...ter-tun?page=3

GreenLee 13/16" punch to create a 13/16" diameter hole for the ball valve.


But i did it with a harbor-fright step bit..Then did this for bulk head.. it works great

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/3-we...lkhead-166778/
does a 13/16" greenlee create a 7/8" hole? I don't need this for a herms coil and i am thinking that maybe Kal's design requires the different size hole because it was used for herms. I just need a ball valve that empties in to the kettle with nothing on the inside like that weldless ball valve kit. That kit says it needs a 7/8" hole but I know these greenlee punches are kind of weird in that the sizes they state aren't necessarily the sizes that they are. I only get one shot at this with my blichman's and want to make sure I put the right size hole in.

If part E is the same setup that Morebeer uses in their weldless kit in my first post then I think I am set. I just can't tell what morebeer is using. I'll give them a call tomorrow. thanks for the suggestions. I think kal just has extra parts because of the way he designed it. Just not sure if the lock nut is needed or not.

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ma...ter-tun?page=3 Part E

MoreBeer's Weldless kit: http://morebeer.com/public/pdf/WL101.pdf

 
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Old 07-04-2012, 11:47 PM   #4
P-J
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Mar 2010
Charlotte, NC
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Be VERY careful when you choose the Greenlee knockout punch.
There are 2 different punch sets available.

The most common is the Conduit Punch set and this is the one to be very aware of and very careful when using it.
The Conduit Punch makes a hole that is the "Nominal Size" for a conduit fitting.
A 1/2" conduit punch makes a 7/8" hole.
A 3/4" conduit punch makes a 1-3/32" hole.
A 1" conduit punch makes a 1-11/32" hole.
A 1-1/4" conduit punch makes a 1-11/16" hole.

I strongly recommend that you measure the die before you attempt to make the hole. Once you make the hole and it's the wrong size? Yea, good luck on that one.

P-J

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Old 07-05-2012, 03:25 PM   #5
DustBow
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May 2010
Cincy, OH
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Yes, be careful to know the true size of the hole. You want a 13/16 or 7/8 hole for the normal 1/2" nipple/bulkhead
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Old 07-05-2012, 04:41 PM   #6
sethhobrin
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Jan 2012
Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 135
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Thanks guys! I just bought the parts that Kal is using and used the link to amazon on his site for the 13/16" punch. I should be all set! Appreciate the advice!

Just pulled the trigger on all the QDs, a 2nd pump, a CFC, tubing... PAINFUL but I am so close to being done I can taste it!

Build thread: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/jus...46/index6.html

 
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