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Old 07-02-2012, 06:27 PM   #1
BaldApe
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Default Insulating Sanke keg mash tun

I just finished constructing a Sanke keg mash tun. I would like to have the option of applying direct heat, but don't want to depend on that for maintaining temperature for fear of scorching the grain.

What has worked for your folks as far as insulating the whole thing?


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Old 07-02-2012, 07:15 PM   #2
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Unless you are brewing in the cold (under 60º or so) you shouldn't need any insulation at all. The stainless holds the heat very well. If needed, you can make a reflectix hood to slip over the top like a tea cozy, as most of the heat will escape out the top anyway. It should look like an inverted can covering the mash tun

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Old 07-03-2012, 01:52 AM   #3
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I used the reflective insulation from lowes. http://www.lowes.com/pd_13353-56291-...7C1&facetInfo=

Make sure you use real aluminum tape, not duct tape. I have thought about using a wool or fiber insulation and covering it with the reflective insulation.

The insulation makes a big differences. I also lay a bunch of beach towels over the lid when the mash is resting.
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Old 07-03-2012, 03:14 PM   #4
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I used reflectix (SP) and it has worked great. I have a HERMS but it keeps the amount my elements cycle on/off to a minimum.
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Old 07-03-2012, 03:42 PM   #5
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Thanks guys. I think I will use 2 layers of the Reflectix, with either fiberglass or foam sandwiched between.
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:05 PM   #6
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I can't find the post right now, but I was researching this last week and the refelctix company recommends air space between the reflectix and water heater (or in our case the keggle). I am going to be doing mine tomorrow. I plan on cutting the reflectix to size then cutting 3 strips. placing a strip at the top, middle and bottom. then using velcro to connect it so I can take it on/off easily. The strip method is how they recommend applying it.

http://www.reflectixinc.com/basepage...&pageIndex=563

This is where I got the info, read the comments section. He explains it much better than I could: http://shipwreckbrew.com/?p=450
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:22 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vince805 View Post
I can't find the post right now, but I was researching this last week and the refelctix company recommends air space between the reflectix and water heater (or in our case the keggle). I am going to be doing mine tomorrow. I plan on cutting the reflectix to size then cutting 3 strips. placing a strip at the top, middle and bottom. then using velcro to connect it so I can take it on/off easily. The strip method is how they recommend applying it.

http://www.reflectixinc.com/basepage...&pageIndex=563

This is where I got the info, read the comments section. He explains it much better than I could: http://shipwreckbrew.com/?p=450
This isn't really needed if you are using a converted sanke keg. There are ribs on the keg at the 5 and 10 gallon points, and this keeps the insulation from lying directly against the side of the keg. Basically, the keg already has the "strips" you are talking about built right into it.
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:15 PM   #8
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I have 2 wraps of reflectix and one wrap of fiberglass, it works very well if you pre-heat the mashtun. I also use HERMS to keep temp and to step-mash. I coated the bottom and top with reflectix as well.


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Old 07-04-2012, 01:15 PM   #9
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I direct fire my mash tun too and the only time I have scorched my grain was when I was in a hurry. If you gently heat your grain, it won't scorch.
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Old 07-31-2012, 01:41 PM   #10
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I wound up using 2 layers of Reflectix loosely fitted to the keg with polyester quilt batting between, and a piece of Styrofoam with Reflectix wrapped around for a lid. Only lost 1 degre F in an hour mash, no recirculation or heating needed.


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