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Old 06-29-2012, 05:01 PM   #11
vinper
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Yes it is a Pulse Width Modulator



 
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:03 PM   #12
RTL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinper View Post
Well the call it a phase angle controller.... also they also make a 110volt controller out of a router rpm controller from harbor freight. dont know what a PWM is but for this build they use a crydom solid state relay part # D2425-10 and a 250k ohm2wtt potentmeter. you can put a amp meter on and watch amps/watts and control the temps its not an off /on switch
I looked extensively before going with switches and the only rheostat I could find that could handle the current draw of a 4500 or 5500 watt element was over $300. If you are talking about a 120v element you will be limited to about 2000 watts. If you want the larger elements the cheapest method is PID, PWM, or a switch as long as you can control boilovers.



 
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:14 PM   #13
vinper
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I just showed you one for $50 it will go atleast 4500 watts 220v 30amps . want more info . Im building a 5500wtt 220v boiler with phase control for about 70$.Is supposed to bring 5 gallon to boil in around 30 min.

 
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:21 PM   #14
vinper
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I never notice the electric brew section or would have/will start a thread

 
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Old 06-30-2012, 02:34 AM   #15
wilserbrewer
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Originally Posted by RTL View Post
Sounds like what I did before I built a control panel. I used a 4500 Watt element so it could be run full throttle without as much boilover risk. I put the element in the keggle the same way Kal did only I used an all weather cover and bought a 30A DPST switch from Lowe's. This allows the element to be turned on/off directly from the side of the keggle without having to be unplugged. I bought an air conditioner extension cord and just cut one end off to wire up the element/switch and left the other end alone to be plugged into the wall. I'll see if I have any pics of it; since then I have built a control panel. Good luck.
This above is the simplest method, however there are downsides to just simply running an element at 100%, or just simply "plugged in". It will take longer to get to a boil, without boiling over, and it can be difficult to dial in a precise boil off rate. Simply put, you can absolutely make beer with an element installed in a kettle w/ no controller, however the element must be sized to avoid boilover and boil at an acceptable rate...say 3500 - 4500w depending on kettle size and batch size, 5-10 gallon batches.

 
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Old 06-30-2012, 02:42 AM   #16
onthekeg
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A 555 PWM is 30 dollars with the SSR. I don't think it can be done any cheaper than mine. I have this, I use it for HLT and kettle. I have a cooler and 5 gallon buckets to mash and move the liquids around. My pump is in the closet, its too much work to clean.

 
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:07 AM   #17
RTL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilserbrewer

This above is the simplest method, however there are downsides to just simply running an element at 100%, or just simply "plugged in". It will take longer to get to a boil, without boiling over, and it can be difficult to dial in a precise boil off rate. Simply put, you can absolutely make beer with an element installed in a kettle w/ no controller, however the element must be sized to avoid boilover and boil at an acceptable rate...say 3500 - 4500w depending on kettle size and batch size, 5-10 gallon batches.
True that. I put a fan blowing on the BK to prevent boil overs. I didn't have problems getting to a boil though, as soon as it started foaming up I stirred like a mad man.

 
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Old 06-30-2012, 02:12 PM   #18
vinper
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I posted the links in electric brew section...easy 5500 wtt 220v controller ..... see what you think I just ordered all the parts



 
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