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Old 07-24-2012, 02:44 PM   #11
lunchbox
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Oct 2009
North Carolina
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Could you use the Auber SYL-2352 PID's for the HLT and BK and then use the Auber 2451 w/ the timer for the mash tun so you can still get the temp? And since you don't have to use that in manual mode, the timer will always work.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:33 AM   #12
P-J
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Mar 2010
Charlotte, NC
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ironmountainbrew,

You mention in your first post
- Key toggle Switch (panel on/off)

Is that something that you still want to incorporate in your panel design? I think it is a good idea. (Especially if you have children in the house.)

I'm still messing with a custom diagram for you and am getting a lot closer with the plan. I'm just dealing with the nitty-gritty now. (I'm hunting down a 50A DP contactor at the moment to implement the Key switch requirement.) I'm also messing with the alarm set/reset functions.

I think the plan will result in a really nice electric brewery set up for you. I also thank you very much for the mental challenge that you presented to this 'ole man. This kind of "stuff" is what keeps me going.

Please let me know.

P-J

 
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Old 07-25-2012, 06:06 PM   #13
ironmountainbrew
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Sep 2011
Festus, MO
Posts: 39

P-J,
Thanks so much for taking interest in my post. Yes, I would like to incorporate the key toggle switch for the on/off, but I'm also open to suggestions if it over complicates the build.

Rbeckett, I'm just using Visio to mock up the panel layout. Thanks for the compliments.

 
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:52 PM   #14
P-J
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Mar 2010
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ironmountainbrew,

Ok. Here is a diagram for your planned build:

As always - Click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



I sure hope this helps you in your adventure. If you need anything changed on the diagram, Please let me know.

P-J

 
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:44 PM   #15
ironmountainbrew
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Sep 2011
Festus, MO
Posts: 39

P-J,
Your contribution of countless hours dedicated to this community is absolutely priceless. I'm sure a lot of the electric brewers out there would still be on propane if it weren't for you.

Thank you for putting this together. This is awesome! The only differences of what I had planned was 1) I wasn't planning on using a power switch for the PIDs and 2) I'm going to use illuminated switches for the element on/off instead of the separate switch and LED power indicators. Unless there is a reason I can't make those changes, this diagram is perfect.

Thanks again for all of your help.

Sincerely,
Ryan...

 
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Old 07-26-2012, 01:06 AM   #16
P-J
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Mar 2010
Charlotte, NC
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Ryan,

Ok. This is the updated diagram with the changes you requested:

As always - Click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



I hope this reflects the changes you wanted.

P-J

 
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Old 07-26-2012, 04:08 PM   #17
ironmountainbrew
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Sep 2011
Festus, MO
Posts: 39

P-J,
This is perfect. I'll be sure to post pictures of my progress here in case anyone else is wanting to do a similar build.

I can't wait to get started.

Thanks again.
Ryan...

 
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:29 AM   #18
mrstevenund
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Feb 2012
Hagerstown, MD
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With my experience, I'd recommend swapping out the Reset button for a Pause button, unless you can turn off the timer independently. The Timer has a pause and reset button on the front, but you have to hold the pause to keep it from counting. I wanted to use my PID as a thermometer while I had my Immersion Chiller going.

 
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:47 AM   #19
P-J
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Mar 2010
Charlotte, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrstevenund View Post
With my experience, I'd recommend swapping out the Reset button for a Pause button, unless you can turn off the timer independently. The Timer has a pause and reset button on the front, but you have to hold the pause to keep it from counting. I wanted to use my PID as a thermometer while I had my Immersion Chiller going.
???

I'm confused with your post...

The diagram shows both a 'pause' & a 'reset' button on the ASL-51 timer.

 
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Old 08-03-2012, 06:21 PM   #20
krazydave
 
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Aug 2010
Santa Clarita, California
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P-J, I'm also building something similar, though mine will control gas valves rather than SSR's. I noticed that you're calling for a 2A fuse to protect the two PID's. Is that 2A fuse what you would recommend to protect the PID's, as the alarm buzzer will be pulling from that fuse as well?

Thanks!

 
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