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Old 06-23-2012, 08:22 PM   #11
Calichusetts
 
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I put my pellets in a hop bag and have very good success this way.

 
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Old 09-07-2012, 06:00 PM   #12
BerserkerPaul
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I have been searching for an answer to this dry hop question: when should I add my hops for dry hopping once I rack to my secondary? My recipe calls for a 3-4 week secondary fermentation and I only want to have the hops in for 7 days, so should I expose the wort to hops for the first 7 days of the 3-4 weeks or the last 7 days of the 3-4 weeks? Thanks!
Trying to dry hop: 1 oz Cascade (pellet), 1 oz Willamette (pellet), and maybe 3 oz whole Amarillo for the 7 days.

 
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Old 09-07-2012, 06:08 PM   #13
BerserkerPaul
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repeat post, sorry.

Reason: copy

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Old 09-07-2012, 06:51 PM   #14
IFMracin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BerserkerPaul View Post
I have been searching for an answer to this dry hop question: when should I add my hops for dry hopping once I rack to my secondary? My recipe calls for a 3-4 week secondary fermentation and I only want to have the hops in for 7 days, so should I expose the wort to hops for the first 7 days of the 3-4 weeks or the last 7 days of the 3-4 weeks? Thanks!
Trying to dry hop: 1 oz Cascade (pellet), 1 oz Willamette (pellet), and maybe 3 oz whole Amarillo for the 7 days.

Last.

 
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:04 PM   #15
BerserkerPaul
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Alright, last week of secondary ferm, got it. I wasn't sure about it b/c I thought I could use a hop bag and then just pull it out (somehow) if it were the first week of the secondary ferm timeline.

 
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Old 09-08-2012, 12:13 AM   #16
jhall4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BerserkerPaul View Post
Alright, last week of secondary ferm, got it. I wasn't sure about it b/c I thought I could use a hop bag and then just pull it out (somehow) if it were the first week of the secondary ferm timeline.
In theory, you could. Why would you want to though?

The aromatics that beer gets from hops are pretty volatile. The point of dry hopping is to get the aromatics into the beer as late as possible (before dry hopping this would be your flameout additions) so they don't have a chance to break down at all.

So sure, you could dry hop earlier in the process but it (partially) defeats the purpose.

 
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Old 09-08-2012, 05:52 AM   #17
helibrewer
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According to this guy, primary is the place to do it. It's an intersting read with commercial techniques mentioned.
http://handsonbrewing.com/brewers-re...he-proper-way/
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Old 09-08-2012, 01:42 PM   #18
ArcLight
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May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helibrewer View Post
According to this guy, primary is the place to do it. It's an intersting read with commercial techniques mentioned.
http://handsonbrewing.com/brewers-re...he-proper-way/
Thank you for posting this. Its contrary to everything I've read but it also may be correct.

Summary - dry hopping just after high krausen, allows the vigorous early yeast activity (first few days) to allow the action of fermentation to “scrub” some of the undesirable flavors from the hops and leave the fresh hop character that was desired.

The problem for me is I don't use a secondary, and see no reason to rack after 5-7 days.
If I were to do this method, I would place the hops in a hop bag.

I'd like to hear from others who have tried this, and compared it to "traditional" dry hopping towards the end of laggering.

 
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Old 09-14-2012, 12:53 AM   #19
Kraftwerk
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Originally Posted by Kraftwerk View Post
I dry hop a lot, usually 3 oz loose pellets per 5 gal batch. I don't use any filtering device and have no problems with clogged kegs or particles in the glass. Main thing is, while dry hopping, to place the carboy exactly where you will rack from. Some particles sink and some stay on the surface, but the middle is mostly clear. For what particles do make it to the keg, it's important not to move the keg a lot, too.
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Originally Posted by bigbeergeek View Post
I've tried this exact technique (often with 4 oz of dry hop pellets) and clogged too many kegs in the process. A tiny piece of filtering material is all it takes to keep my kegged IIPAs worry free and clear of debris (and it also lets me rack every precious drop of hoppy nectar from the fermentor without issue).

Very happy (hoppy) that is works for you and your draft beer!
So... I'm going to have to retract what I said earlier. Had some problems racking clear beer, and found the simplest way to fix the issue is attach a muslin bag to the beer output end of your siphon going into the keg. On my last batch I caught a ping-pong sized ball of leaf matter on its way to the keg. The beer came out pretty clear and most importantly free of plant materal.
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