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Old 06-20-2012, 12:42 PM   #21
jcaudill
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No, other way around. It's very easy to inject too much O2 into your wort and when you do you risk (enter boiled down explanation) suffocating the yeast. With pure O2 you can inject up to 30ppm - almost 4 times the "ideal" level of aeration which is considered to be 8ppm which you can achieve with compressed air.

Sure - you can under oxygenate. But I have to tell you I've never seen it. I usually set my regulator to about 25psi at the tank, and then my valve is cracked about 1/4. As wort passes by it's essentially inundated with air. You also have air heading up the lines into the tank as well as it's helping force the wort into the tank. For the entire duration of the transfer which is usually 10-20 minutes at least, this is quite a bit of air.

FWIW - most of the big boys used compressed air.

 
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:59 PM   #22
nhwrecker
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can you post a few more pictures on your rig? Looks like you've got a tee on your chiller plate for the thermometer and the outlet plumbing, then clear plastic (to see the wort?). Is the next tee with the valve your outlet to the fermenter? And do you have any check valves in line with the air, or do you just use the air pressure to keep the wort at bay? Does the filter sit inside a housing that you plug inline with your air connections?

Thanks for any additional information - I'm building my CFC right now and was thinking of going with O2, but may switch to air from my compressor based on this thread.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jcaudill View Post
The key is to keep it simple - here's my knockout setup:


Untitled by brewerJP

As chilled wort passes I have my air compressor injecting air into it. I prefer to use air because it's impossible to over-aerate. And yes - it is highly filtered! I have a Meissner 0.1um capsule filter inline and a coalescing filter before that to capture any liquids.

 
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:15 PM   #23
jcaudill
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Sure - I can do that! Give me a bit.

But to the plumbing - you pretty much have it. Chilled wort comes out and passes through the thermometer so I can monitor the temp. Then it goes through the sight glass. The sight glass is really to monitor turbidity. That is why you'll notice at that next T as it comes out towards you there is a valve that is pointed downwards. That's a dump valve that I open up when I first start transferring so any trub or cold break material gets dumped before it hits the fermenter. Also - I can open it up towards the end as the hop cone breaks down if need be. To the far right is where the air comes in. I'll snap a picture of the setup but the verbal explanation is from the air compressor port, to a coalescing air filter (15 bucks from Lowes) - this captures any liquid in the air. Then hose down to a Meissner capsule filter that has barbs on both sides. Then hose down to a ball valve that has a built-in check valve. This prevents the liquid from flowing back up the air line. Finally this all connects to the inline aeration stone. You have positive pressure from both sides - chilled wort, and air and that is all forced out that T which moves it to the fermenter!

 
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Old 06-20-2012, 04:55 PM   #24
jcaudill
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Ok - not the best pics in the world but here we go:

This shows the connection at the compressor and the coalescing filter:

Untitled by brewerJP

Down to the Meissner capsule filter and ball valve - there would normally be a QD where the pipe is on the right and that's where it connects:

Untitled by brewerJP

The whole assembly:

Untitled by brewerJP

Little different angle on the plumbing:

Untitled by brewerJP

I have better pics of the whole rig but I snapped one anyway:

Untitled by brewerJP

Hope this helps!

 
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Old 06-20-2012, 05:36 PM   #25
Tomtanner
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Adding this to the long list of brewing ideas I intend to incorporate.

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Old 06-20-2012, 06:07 PM   #26
evandena
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcaudill
Absolutely - it must be filtered for both air and liquid. I have a cheap coalescing filter right at the connection from the compressor to catch any liquid, and then I have a Meissner capsule filter 0.1um to clean the air. I have a ball valve with check to control flow and keep liquid out.
Can you snap a photo or product links to your air compressor filter setup?
I'd live to do this, but I have no idea how to appropriately filter.
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Old 06-20-2012, 06:14 PM   #27
OneHoppyGuy
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I turn on the O2 at 5psi for 1/2 the batch. Done. My stones last about 1 season (30 batches?)

 
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Old 06-20-2012, 06:20 PM   #28
jcaudill
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Super super simple.

This is the filter responsible for catching any liquid the compressor shoots out. Compressors have a tendency to accumulate water / oil and other nasties you want to keep out of your filter.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_221024-47120...RL=&facetInfo=

I use a Meissner CSPM0.2-222 - it's actually a 0.2um filter with 3/8" barbs. I picked mine up from Heyes but I had an inside kind of deal. I think Cole-Parmer is probably the best place to look. You just need a barb air filter with a 0.1-0.3ish micro rating and that is responsible for filtering the crap out of the air. They likely sell Whatman.

Then you need a ball valve with built-in check valve. I know GW Kent has these but I'm sure someone else does as well.

All of this is connecting with some nice stiff tubing - I believe mind is 3/8" Bevlex poly braid. And of course you'll need the fitting to connect it to the compressor - normal male compressor insert.

I'm not sure there's another picture I could post that would help but I'm certainly happy to provide any more detail you'd like.

 
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:08 PM   #29
evandena
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Thanks. The HBT app is working like garbage (normal), so I didn't even see you other post. Can't see picture for some reason, so I'll check it out later. Thanks again.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:32 PM   #30
jcaudill
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Welcome!

 
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