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Old 09-27-2012, 02:53 PM   #61
Lilrascal
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I may be wrong, but this is what I am using in my set up. It is listed as a stainless element.

http://bostonheatingsupply.com/sp10868gl.aspx


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Old 09-27-2012, 03:12 PM   #62
jpoder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lilrascal View Post
I may be wrong, but this is what I am using in my set up. It is listed as a stainless element.
Hmm...from the Rheem website, it says that the element is made from Stainless Steel and coated with an "outer sheath of Incology® 800" from the looks on the Camco one I have (and reading other threads) mine is copper with the same Incology coating.

Looks like there is already a thread on this topic: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/bes...oating-292217/



 
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Old 09-27-2012, 04:45 PM   #63
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I've used the "short" camco 1500W elements that aren't actually ULWD for a while now. Still have one in my BK along with a 1650W ULWD (for real). Never had any detectable scorching flavors or anything else. I use a brush on them but don't go crazy. Haven't taken the coating off or anything like that. Aint broke, don't fix.
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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!

 
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Old 09-27-2012, 04:50 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by AnOldUR View Post
WhooHooo! Direct fire EMLT with NO scorching . . .
and a grist of 50% malted wheat and 50% flaked maize.

My first fizzy yellow beer.
How hard are these elements to bend? I don't want to break one, but I'd like to change how mine is angled in the BK. I can't get my IC all the way submerged because the angle of the keg where the element is mounted has the element pointing upward at probably a 20* angle. If I can bend it more level I might get more of my IC in and thus faster cooling.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davekippen View Post
Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!

 
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:02 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tre9er View Post
How hard are these elements to bend? I don't want to break one . . .
The picture is a 1650W Emerson that's copper. I went slow and easy, fearing it might kink or break something internal, but it seemed to move where I wanted it to pretty easy. Works fine and should spread the heat out a bit more. Not so sure about a stainless element.

 
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:39 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnOldUR View Post
The picture is a 1650W Emerson that's copper. I went slow and easy, fearing it might kink or break something internal, but it seemed to move where I wanted it to pretty easy. Works fine and should spread the heat out a bit more. Not so sure about a stainless element.
I think mine is the same emerson. I think I even linked to it earlier in this thread?? I may give it a try. At least they're cheap. I'll do it AFTER my next round of brews though!
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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!

 
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:08 PM   #67
cockybitz
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What about using a 6000W element on a 120V circuit. That should give you only 1500W of working power. Has anyone else done such?

 
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:48 PM   #68
thargrav
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A lot of people do this - it's a smart way to turn a high watt density element into a medium watt density element.

 
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:48 PM   #69
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I am still searching for a 12" long ULWD 240V 1500Watt/2000watt element for my rims tube.

Lots of choices for 120v but not so much for 240v.

I have a 240v circuit.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:34 PM   #70
thargrav
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You can run a 6000 Watt 480V water heating element at 240V for 1500 watts, but they aren't cheap.

http://www.drillspot.com/products/32...ectric_Element



 
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