There comes a point in a project where you stand back and review the work ... and then think of all the things you would tweak or change, and the good parts too. This is that list in no particular order.
The enclosure I used is a great size -- 16x16x12(D). The depth makes it trivial to make everything fit and the width/height make it pretty easy to stick your hands in the box and poke around. The depth has a second benefit also since it's mounted next to my kettles -- it stick out further making it easier to reach.
My layout was based on Kals' with a few tweaks. I'm planning on phasing some components over to Arduino control and that drove some of the layout decisions (the top right space for a keypad). The power switch clears the lock fine (I checked before cutting) -- but the tag doesn't fit .. oops. If I did it again, I'd probably move the power switch to the top right lined up with the yellow row -- seems to make more sense. I also may yet swap the water pump switch and alarm -- the lack of symmetry is bugging me
Label the wires and test connections as you go. Assembling it is easy if you're focused and following a diagram. However, once you get done it's just a big jumble of wires - I didn't label mine. I only made one trivial wiring mistake, but it could have been pretty painful to try and debug any errors (and unforgiving if things start frying). If you're probing inside with a multi-meter, make sure you have a steady hand --- or you really trust that GFCI. Lots of exposed ways to fry yourself.
I didn't add an emergency stop (The PJ style GFCI short is easy) -- eh. Maybe I should.
Get a good wire stripper and you must have a good crimper. I used a Klein stripper and the crimper I ordered worked great for all the red/blue/yellow crimps I used. This thing was night and day from other horrible methods I've tried
I got my crimp terminals at home depot and matched them to the wire size and screw hole. As much as possible I used the ring version instead of spades so nothing can go flying if it gets loose. I think I used spades on all the switches/lights on the door -- everything else was rings.
I ran each wire and cut to length as needed keeping in mind the door and organizing it with zip ties. Don't be afraid to reroute, replace and recut wires. I did quite a few over as I built and again as I tidied it up. It came out better organized that way.
If you get the deluxe probe cables from Auber try asking for longer leads on the part in the panel that connects to the PID. I had to solder on new leads given the size of the box. Easy if you have the equipment, otherwise this would be difficult.
I realized after I had it together that replacing a broken component, like a relay, is going to be a nightmare. I'll have to pull most of the wiring and cut the zip ties to lift out the backplate. In hindsight (or if it ever comes apart) I should have either threaded holes in the back plate for mounting the parts or welded the nuts to the back. Neither of these an easy task. Which leads to...
I'll seriously consider a DIN rail mounted system if I build a version 2 someday. When I initially looked at the DIN route, I couldn't find any clear and concise information on what I needed and the parts seem to generally be quite a bit higher in cost. A DIN rail setup would make serviceability better and it would probably go together faster -- although honestly it wasn't that bad. It would also make it easier to tinker with the guts if desired.
I'm still debating the quality of the probe quick disconnects. They came from Auber, but the probes seem prone to poor connections. I've had more than a instances already where I had to jiggle the connector to get a reading (besides error) on PID. They seem decent, but something about them is giving me trouble.
I like the lighted switches a lot. More space for a logo
I hate our crawl space. Hire a plumber. 'nuff said.
Obviously, I took the tri-clamp route. I won't start a flame-war or start trolling, but I'm a convert and a fan. The cost and investment isn't trivial. However, who doesn't like 50 pounds of stainless bling.
The soft silicon seals better, but the harder materials are easier to connect. Hooking them up isn't hard, but it takes some coordination.
Now that I have a clue about TC hardware, I realize I could have used 1" everything (valves, elbows, tees, etc) instead of 1.5". It would save some cost, liquid deadspace, weight and bench space -- but it really doesn't matter in the grand scheme of things. The kettle outlets are 1" however -- so 1.5" is mostly pointless.
The bad -- how many clamps do you need? I mean really, I can barely carry the box of them and I'm still short.
The bench came out nice. It's already apparent after a couple test runs that I need to add a lip in the back at least to contain spills. It's also going to get punished by the moisture and heat. The concrete top is still on my todo list once I decide if this is the right size and shape (20" x 60").
I'm going to need a whole lot more storage too. Hoses, clamps, gaskets, valves, etc etc.
If the ventilation guy would ever call me back I might get one....
Overall I'm looking forward to brewing on this system.