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Old 06-14-2012, 03:28 AM   #1
thargrav
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Here is a detailed article for installing a water heater element into a brewpot.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Inst...nt-in-a-Polar/

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Old 06-14-2012, 04:06 AM   #2
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thanks for sharing.
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Old 06-14-2012, 04:14 AM   #3
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Wish they had plans for a sanke keg! I'm pretty tired of waiting so long for my HLT to heat.
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Old 06-14-2012, 04:25 AM   #4
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A Sanke keg would be done the same way if you want to add 2000 watts of auxiliary heat. You would just mount the element through the side and wire through a heavy duty light switch. Or you could wire in a 4000 watt 240V element but you need 240 VAC available to plug into. A 4000 watt 240V element still only draws 16.6 amps.

 
Old 06-14-2012, 02:27 PM   #5
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Did you write that?

If so, you need to add that the 20 amp kitchen outlet has to have a GFCI or some how there is a GFI inline for protection, donít assume all kitchen outlet have this. I'd be more worried about that then someone voiding the kettles warranty...

Other then that, it should be helpful to some.
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:43 PM   #6
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16 guage cord? 14, or even a 12 might be more appropriate.

 
Old 06-15-2012, 02:40 AM   #7
thargrav
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runs4beer View Post
Did you write that?

If so, you need to add that the 20 amp kitchen outlet has to have a GFCI or some how there is a GFI inline for protection, donít assume all kitchen outlet have this. I'd be more worried about that then someone voiding the kettles warranty...

Other then that, it should be helpful to some.
Yes, I wrote the article. And because of the way the element is wired there is no need for a GFI. The entire brew pot is tied to ground with the green wire that's attached to the green ground screw in the box. Your kitchen fridge, stove, garbage disposal and dishwasher are grounded the exact same way with no GFI in their circuits.

 
Old 06-15-2012, 02:44 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilserbrewer View Post
16 guage cord? 14, or even a 12 might be more appropriate.
I measured the voltage across the element and it's the same voltage that's at the outlet. The heater element draws only 16.6 amps at 120 Volts and the 16 gauge power cord is a non-issue.

I did stress that you should not use a smaller cord or a longer cord for the project because I'm sure that at some length you will start to see a voltage drop across the cord.

 
Old 06-15-2012, 03:05 AM   #9
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You will find that newer codes require GFI for those very appliances. I believe every receptacle in the kitchen or bathroom has to be gfi because it's a 'wet' environment. Brewing certainly qualifies as a wet environment.

 
Old 06-15-2012, 03:30 AM   #10
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I installed a new stove in my kitchen last year. I had to run new feeds because my Wife wanted a separate stovetop & oven and there were no requirements for a GFI breaker for the stove or oven. Modern code does require a 4 wire outlet with a separate neutral and ground for all new installs. They went from three wires to four wires because unlike connections like the one I made for the brew pot, the white neutral wire actually carries some current for the 120V parts like the oven light. The 4th green wire is the stove's safety ground.

If you wire your brewpot correctly the third wire (the green wire) is also the safety ground. The metal pot will be bonded to ground through the third round plug in the cord and if anything did short to the pot any current will be carried safely to ground. There is no need for a GFI breaker.

 
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