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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > 240V 30A HLT and BK with 120V 20A RIMS running BCS-460
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:50 PM   #1
Tom_FL
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Default 240V 30A HLT and BK with 120V 20A RIMS running BCS-460

Hi All
First off than you so much for all of the support you all provide to these forums.

Right now I am in the process of going electric. I have a "2 1/2 Tier Stand" (HLT below the MLT, with the BK on a mid-point tier next to them). One pump will feed the strike, recirculation, and sparge, while gravity will deliver the wort to the BK.

I am leaning towards going with BCS to control the whole system and most recently am leaning towards a RIMS tube to maintain mash temp.

I have access to a GFCI protected 240V 30A feed as well as multiple GFCI protected 120V 20A feeds. What I am wondering is if I can use the 30A feed for the HLT and BK (with coil contactors and switched per P-J's diagrams to ensure only one is in use at any given time) and use a 120V 20A feed to run a smaller element for the RIMS tube as well as power the BCS. Basically a control panel (or two separate but connected CP's) with two feeds in.

If such a setup is feasible I am thinking it will give me a bit more flexablity to do back to back (I know it will be slower) as well as allow me to not have to worry about the temp loss in the HLT after moving the strike water to the MLT and then adding in the additional sparge water that some face with HERMS.

I have a 25' 3/8 copper IC that I was going to repurpose for HERMS but given that is probably on the small side of what is needed I am thinking spending the few extra bucks on a RIMS system might give me the flexibility I need.

Any thoughts on the feasibility of this setup are really appreciated.


Thanks
Tom


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Old 06-11-2012, 10:08 PM   #2
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There should be no problem with multiple power feeds, but I would recommend that they each go to a separate control panel. I'm not comfortable with multiple power sources going into one panel. I would rather see one panel with the RIMS and pump control containing it's own SSR's @ 120v feed, possibly containing the BCS also. A second panel containing the SSR's and power contactors etc. for the HLT and boil kettle. Connect them together with low voltage wiring only.


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Old 06-11-2012, 10:24 PM   #3
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I have a 30A 240VAC feed into my toolbox controller. I have a switch that ensures that the two 5500W elements can't be on at the same time. I have 1 PID controlling both; the switch switches control signals and thermocouple signals. It's worked great for over 50 batches.
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Old 06-12-2012, 03:54 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckO
There should be no problem with multiple power feeds, but I would recommend that they each go to a separate control panel. I'm not comfortable with multiple power sources going into one panel. I would rather see one panel with the RIMS and pump control containing it's own SSR's @ 120v feed, possibly containing the BCS also. A second panel containing the SSR's and power contactors etc. for the HLT and boil kettle. Connect them together with low voltage wiring only.
Thanks for the thoughts. I was figuring that two boxes was probably the safest way to go but would certainly rather do it in one. Is here any reason beyond the potential for a wiring cross not to do it all in one. I know the ground terminal could be shared.

Has anyone seen anyone seen any wiring diagrams showing such a setup.

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Old 06-12-2012, 04:04 AM   #5
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Ultimately, a single feed to your contol panel is best. When you build your own system, you know how it is put together and its limitations. How many of us walk away from our brewery going full bore? It is a supervised system. If something goes wrong, we will likely know about it immediately if not sooner

Go HERMS IMO. I'm one sided but it just works so well for me...
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:15 AM   #6
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So I was all set to go HERMS and then came across a couple of issues I thought this build might address.

1). Loss of Temp in the HLT after moving strike water to MLT and then adding in enough sparge water.

2). Right now I have a only have 25' 3/8 copper IC to use for the HEX.

3). A RIMS tube running off a separate feed would allow me to use the tube to start heating strike water for a second batch during the boil on the first.
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:30 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom_FL View Post
So I was all set to go HERMS and then came across a couple of issues I thought this build might address.

1). Loss of Temp in the HLT after moving strike water to MLT and then adding in enough sparge water.

2). Right now I have a only have 25' 3/8 copper IC to use for the HEX.

3). A RIMS tube running off a separate feed would allow me to use the tube to start heating strike water for a second batch during the boil on the first.
1) It depends on the size of your HLT. I heat 14 gallons to mash-in temp. I mash in with about 9 and the remainder tempers my refill so it reheats pretty quickly for circulation and sparge.

2) I have 50' copper 3/8 HEX coil. It is SO efficient. If scrap prices go up again, I may cut it in half and sell the rest.

3) No comment. I know and like HERMS...no offense RIMS guys
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:14 PM   #8
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Thanks for the thoughts. I pulled the trigger on going RIMS with a good deal on a TC Tube in the classifieds.

Now I just need to figure out the best way to wire it together with the 120 RIMS and 240 HLT/BK

Thanks
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:27 PM   #9
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Any other thoughts out there on this?

If I decide to go with one box, I would just treat the 120V/20a as Line 3, with it's own neutral bus to prevent overloading the the same gauge wires. Any reason both circuits can't share the same ground block? No problem keeping them separate if folks think that is best.
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom_FL
Any other thoughts out there on this?

If I decide to go with one box, I would just treat the 120V/20a as Line 3, with it's own neutral bus to prevent overloading the the same gauge wires. Any reason both circuits can't share the same ground block? No problem keeping them separate if folks think that is best.
The neutrals must stay separated. Bonding the enclosure and all ground wires that enter is the proper method.


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