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Old 04-13-2013, 02:57 PM   #71
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OK. Thanks P-J.

I'm reading that to say all, as in ALL neutrals. Even the circuits that are using 10 awg for the hot?

Just so I can understand, can you briefly tell me why.


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Old 04-13-2013, 10:02 PM   #72
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OK. Thanks P-J.

I'm reading that to say all, as in ALL neutrals. Even the circuits that are using 10 awg for the hot?

Just so I can understand, can you briefly tell me why.

Ok. No problem.

Looking at the diagram please note that the Neutral is connected to the contactor coils that draw less than one Amp total. Then it connects to power input for the JSL-71 timer > less than 1 amp. Then it provides power to the 2 pump outlets for a total draw of less than 4 amps. From there it goes on to the SYL-2352 PID input power and switch indicator lights. The total draw on the Neutral circuit will be less than 6 Amps.

Also please note that every device that uses the Neutral line has its 120V hot fused seperately. With this setup much smaller wire can be used for every device except the 240V circuits powering the elements.

That's it for the Neutral.

The 240V 10 awg circuits are the blue lines going to the contactor points and then to the elements and the red lines going to the SSR and then to the contactor points and then the elements. The only 240V powered devices are the 2 heating elements and the element indicator lights.

Hope this helps and makes sense.

P-J


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Old 04-13-2013, 11:31 PM   #73
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That's perfect and makes total sense! :-)

Thanks!
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:22 PM   #74
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P-J,

I noticed the HLT/BK selector switch is not on a fused circuit. Should I fuse that as well so I can step the wire size down or should I just use 10 awg wire for that piece?

Thanks (as always). :-)
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:55 PM   #75
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P-J,

I noticed the HLT/BK selector switch is not on a fused circuit. Should I fuse that as well so I can step the wire size down or should I just use 10 awg wire for that piece?

Thanks (as always). :-)
It's fused. Follow switch #1 terminals 11 & 13. They are connected together and then go to the 10A fuse at the bottom.
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Old 04-15-2013, 04:10 PM   #76
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It's fused. Follow switch #1 terminals 11 & 13. They are connected together and then go to the 10A fuse at the bottom.
Ok.... My bad. I'm was looking at the diagram before you updated it. For some reason it doesn't want to refresh.

But, I understand what needs to be done there. Thanks
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:57 PM   #77
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Ok. Here is a big pile of parts from all over the d*mn place. I am going to start a build thread because it'll give me a clean spot to document my progress from scratch. I'll link it once I get it set up.

P-J and others who have helped, once I get the build thread up I'd love it if you guys/gals would follow that so as I have questions you can help me there.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:38 PM   #78
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Here is the link to the other thread I started:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/g-l...0/#post5200146


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