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Old 06-21-2012, 11:20 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by mmonacel View Post
When planning out for my water it looks like my mash pH is going to be on the low side. Would reducing the acid malt by an ounce or two affect this in any real way do you think? Doing that would put me into the needed mash range (with the other ions balanced out correctly as well). My guess is it would be fine, but I'm not sure the purpose of the acid malt here since I'm guess alone isn't going to provide much sourness at about 4% of the grist. Your thoughts?
These beers are very acidic. In fact, they are heartburn bombs, especially if you already have a predisposition for it. The LAST thing I would add to one of these sour beers is acid malt.

I don't ever mess with my water beyond a bit of gypsum or calcium chloride, so maybe I'm missing something here.


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Old 06-21-2012, 11:34 PM   #92
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Thanks Matt - that's helpful. Once more question for you and anyone else who wants to chime in. I thought I've seen that Vinnie uses a Brett mix along the lines of: 50% Brett Brux., 10% Brett Claus., 10% Brett Lambicus, and his RR Funky mix of Brett, Pedio, Lacto.

I'll pitch Brett only first. I don't know of any Brett only mixes, just pure Brett strains. Should I go with Brett L.? I'm making a 10 gal batch, and considering splitting secondary into two with one Brett L and one Brett B, just to see what comes out. And of course pitch something like Roeselare 7-8 weeks later. Thoughts?
Sorry if I repeat what others have said here...

Vinnie does an initial fermentation with WL Abbey Ale Yeast. He then removes that yeast (cold crash), pitches brett and adds the fruit, and lets it sit at 60F for 2+ months. Then, more brett and bacteria are added and left for another 3-ish months in the cab barrels. Then, bottled with the wine yeast and another 2 months of aging before sale.


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Old 06-22-2012, 12:39 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by passedpawn View Post
These beers are very acidic. In fact, they are heartburn bombs, especially if you already have a predisposition for it. The LAST thing I would add to one of these sour beers is acid malt.

I don't ever mess with my water beyond a bit of gypsum or calcium chloride, so maybe I'm missing something here.
The Grain Bill for the morebeer kit contains 8 Ounces of Acidulated malt. I assume this is what he is asking about. Personally I wouldn't mess with your water unless it is really off. Of course I would also be (am) tempted to use bottled spring water for the recipe.

 
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Old 06-22-2012, 12:55 AM   #94
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Don't mess with your water. You could be lowering ph in the wrong way. Try a partial sour mash to mix in with your main mash.

Interesting about the heartburn thing. I've found that lactic acid isn't so bad on the stomach and can be helpful with digestion (think kombucha). Acetic acid on the other hand... That'll wreck my stomach three ways to Sunday.

 
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:43 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenWillcox View Post
The Grain Bill for the morebeer kit contains 8 Ounces of Acidulated malt. I assume this is what he is asking about. Personally I wouldn't mess with your water unless it is really off. Of course I would also be (am) tempted to use bottled spring water for the recipe.
Yes - I was referring to the acid malt in the grain bill. My water is super soft and basically free of ions (almost distilled), which is great for pilsners, but not so much for other beers. I've found if I don't build up my water appropriately I get a very flabby beer due to the mash pH being outside the target range (5.4-5.6 at room temp; 5.1-5.3 at mash temp) and my ion levels Ca, Mg, etc. being super low. Usually adding in some gypsum, Calcium Chloride, and a little Epsom salt gets me to where I need to be mash pH and ion-wise for a good conversion and bright flavors.

That amount of acid malt though throws my mash pH for a bit of a loop and drops it very low. Backing off an ounce or two would put it back in the sweet spot.
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:30 AM   #96
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Is the recipe kit particulars listed anywhere other than that Beersmith shot a couple pages back? Or does it come with the kit when you buy it? I didn't see it listed on their site.

I'd like to do this but I already have in stock all of the stuff listed other than currants and the consecration wood chips. I'm not sure if paying 50 bucks is worth it just for those things alone. I would be happy soaking some chips in cab and doing it that way...

 
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:41 AM   #97
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It's further up in this thread...

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f127/con...9/#post4178879

Note that however it also discusses an issue with the original instructions and an incorrect IBU figure. I think it gets you what you're looking for though. Just keep reading.
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:26 AM   #98
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Read the whole thread and now I'm seeing it all. Now I need to source some currants. Thanks a bunch...

 
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:44 PM   #99
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Does any one have the Beersmith specs (potential and SRM) for the dried currants? I've already corrected the hops additions.

 
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:05 PM   #100
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Read the whole thread and now I'm seeing it all. Now I need to source some currants. Thanks a bunch...
Grocery store carries them with the other dried fruits, in with the snacks and chips. Look for this:



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