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Old 06-08-2012, 04:53 PM   #21
texasbrewer73
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I generally sparge until my BK is full. Unless it's a small beer and the gravity falls below 1.007-8 when lautering.

 
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:03 PM   #22
FredTheNuke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamming View Post
This is what i have been using, I would like to build or buy something that spreads the water evenly across the grain bed, any ideas on a sparge arm build would be greatly appreciated. I often have to move the arm around to prevent channeling, Pain in the butt.

http://www.loc-line.com/half-inch.php

Use the 1/2" Circle Flow Kit from Loc Line. Works awesome as a sparge assembly and is fully adjustable, easy to clean, etc! My rotating sparge arm clogged up doing HERMS through it - with the Loc Line all the goooey pre-wort flows just fine.

 
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:11 PM   #23
FredTheNuke
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here is a Youtube video of the Loc Line Sparge Assembly.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...fe_hFdybLMwnTw

 
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:15 PM   #24
CKing
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http://www.homebrewstuff.com/sparge-...gal-igloo.html

^ That's what I use. It's connected to the mash tun lid and is fed from another 5-gallon beverage cooler HLT. Nice and easy with great results.

 
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:19 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wailingguitar View Post
Either just before or right after. The effect will be the same. Generally, you would start your runoff then turn the sparge on. This is because there is the assumption that you would be doing a vorlauf and as soon as you see wort clarity that satisfies you it would be diverted to the kettle and then the sparge would start.
Thanks for the help.
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:45 PM   #26
SnidelyWhiplash
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Feb 2012
cincinnati, OH
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Originally Posted by Jamming View Post
Pics ? Are there holes in the hose and a plugged end.
put a hose clamp on the end to close it, cut holes spread over the last foot, coil that in a circle halfway between the middle and the walls, with the holes facing up.

keeping it off the edge and closing the end are important to avoid channeling.

 
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:50 PM   #27
Jamming
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FredTheNuke View Post
http://www.loc-line.com/half-inch.php

Use the 1/2" Circle Flow Kit from Loc Line. Works awesome as a sparge assembly and is fully adjustable, easy to clean, etc! My rotating sparge arm clogged up doing HERMS through it - with the Loc Line all the goooey pre-wort flows just fine.
These are great ! Thanks for the video and link, It appears in the video that the sparge is missing the outer area of the mash, Is this any problem. I normally keep my sparge water about 1-2 iches above the grain bed for less channeling, You system looks great, Will give it a try. I like the way it can be taken apart and cleaned.

 
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Old 06-09-2012, 12:34 AM   #28
FredTheNuke
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If you Continuous Sparge and keep 1-2 inches above the grain bed then it will not matter. The Loc Line will simplly apply that water without digging into the grain bed. YOu can also twist the Loc Line discharges so every other one points outward and you will get almost out to the edge (and more gently apply the water).

 
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Old 07-14-2012, 08:02 PM   #29
DeafSmith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wailingguitar View Post
OP; I do a variation on a continuous sparge. Instead of taking the entire hour to slowly run sparge water in, after mashing I begin runoff then get all my sparge water in in about 5-10 minutes. The trick is a) having a MLT large enough to hold it all and b) to do it without disturbing the top of the grain bed significantly. Basically, it isn't necessary to match in and out flow as long as your run off time is the same (about an hour) and the water isn't actually mixing in with the mash, but staying above it until gravity drains it through. Now, this does assume you have an insulated MLT so you don't lose heat.
I've been batch sparging but thinking about trying continuous sparging. Your technique sounds interesting, but one thing worries me. What happens if you get a stuck mash? If you only have an inch or two above the grain, you can stir, vorlauf again, and start over, but if this happens with all the sparge water in the tun and you have to stir to clear it, then it seems you're forced into doing a batch, or maybe it could even be considered a no-sparge, with corresponding loss of efficiency, causing you to undershoot your gravity.

 
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