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Old 06-03-2012, 09:29 PM   #11
wailingguitar
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Oct 2011
Florence, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper View Post
I go back and forth between batch sparging and continuous sparging, depending on if I'm in a hurry and what's going on that day.

I have a HERMS so I ramp up to mash out temps and then just switch the hoses to sparge and drain the MLT. I have two pumps, so it's a single tier. I keep the same level of liquid above the grainbed that I did during the mash and just continue until I reach my boil volume. It takes me about an hour for a 10 gallon batch, more or less.
Thank you, Yooper, for saying continuous sparging! I loathe the term "fly sparge"! LOL



OP; I do a variation on a continuous sparge. Instead of taking the entire hour to slowly run sparge water in, after mashing I begin runoff then get all my sparge water in in about 5-10 minutes. The trick is a) having a MLT large enough to hold it all and b) to do it without disturbing the top of the grain bed significantly. Basically, it isn't necessary to match in and out flow as long as your run off time is the same (about an hour) and the water isn't actually mixing in with the mash, but staying above it until gravity drains it through. Now, this does assume you have an insulated MLT so you don't lose heat.
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:20 PM   #12
SavoryChef
 
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I have a two tier system, so i gravity feed my sparge water using a 5 foot silicon hose coiled on top of the grain bed. Works like a charm.
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Old 06-04-2012, 02:47 AM   #13
Jamming
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northcalais40 View Post
To vorlauf is to very slowly begin to drain your MLT so that the grain bed "sets" and filters out fine grist particles. You can see the runnings go from cloudy to bright in 1-2 qts. It reduces the amount of grist and therefore trub and astringency in the wort.

Many will disagree. But this is the traditional rationale.
Interesting, because I filter my wort as I pump it from the mash tun through a painters filter bag into my boil keggles. Is there any advantage to putting it back into the tun.

 
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Old 06-04-2012, 02:48 AM   #14
Jamming
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SavoryChef View Post
I have a two tier system, so i gravity feed my sparge water using a 5 foot silicon hose coiled on top of the grain bed. Works like a charm.
Pics ? Are there holes in the hose and a plugged end.

 
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Old 06-04-2012, 03:27 PM   #15
SavoryChef
 
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I dont have pics. There are no holes in the tubing. Theelectricbrewery.com does the same thing as well as the blinchman auto sparge. Check them out, they have pics.
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:24 PM   #16
ID10t
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Jun 2012
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I just pour the sparge over my stir spoon slowly to avoid disturbing the grain bed. I keep the flow to the kettle slow and keep the sparge water level about an inch deep over the grain.

 
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Old 06-08-2012, 11:32 AM   #17
tdbc2011
 
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I will try fly sparging this weekend. So do I start the process before the mash is drained or as soon as I start draining the mash.
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Old 06-08-2012, 01:58 PM   #18
wailingguitar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdbc2011 View Post
I will try fly sparging this weekend. So do I start the process before the mash is drained or as soon as I start draining the mash.
Either just before or right after. The effect will be the same. Generally, you would start your runoff then turn the sparge on. This is because there is the assumption that you would be doing a vorlauf and as soon as you see wort clarity that satisfies you it would be diverted to the kettle and then the sparge would start.
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Old 06-08-2012, 02:59 PM   #19
Wynne-R
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Texas
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I use a colander. My lauter tun is a bottling bucket with a copper manifold. Works like a charm.

 
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:31 PM   #20
Tubbster85
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While your fly sparging, do you continuously sparge until you have your pre boil volume even if you still have mash/water(i dont know if its considered wort at this point)in the mash tun or do you want to get all of the water in the mash tun out at your pre boil volume?

 
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