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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > General Techniques > Dry hopping: Primary vs. secondary
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:28 PM   #31
BigJay13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happychappy
Hmmm... Never heard that, even from the pros. Besides, opening up the fermenter mid way thru primary to throw hops in just lets oxygen back in... kinda defeats the purpose of airlock?
From How to Brew:


Hops can also be added to the fermenter for increased hop aroma in the final beer. This is called "dry hopping" and is best done late in the fermentation cycle. If the hops are added to the fermenter while it is still actively bubbling, then a lot of the hop aroma will be carried away by the carbon dioxide. It is better to add the hops (usually about a half ounce per 5 gallons) after bubbling has slowed or stopped and the beer is going through the conditioning phase prior to bottling. The best way to utilize dry hopping is to put the hops in a secondary fermenter, after the beer has been racked away from the trub and can sit a couple of weeks before bottling, allowing the volatile oils to diffuse into the beer.


I'd like to know what pros are putting hops right at the beginning of primary fermentation. I've heard of putting them in a few points above fg which gives good results but definitely not at the beginning. If the yeast is active it will chew up any oxygen.
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Old 02-16-2013, 07:34 AM   #32
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glad i searched for this info. my plan (according to the advice) is to primary until ferm. stops, wait a few days to be sure, then dump 3oz of pellets into a DIPA. this is due to the equipment i have on hand, that is to say in my normal primary there is a RIS awaiting a cold crash so all i have to primary in is a Better Bottle (6 gal) and i have decided to take the advice:
1) after ferm stops in primary, add hop pellets. no bags, no mesh. dump 'em in.
2) dry hop for about 5 days.
3) cold crash for 3 days @ 35 degrees. then bottle.

sound about right?
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:42 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by te-wa
glad i searched for this info. my plan (according to the advice) is to primary until ferm. stops, wait a few days to be sure, then dump 3oz of pellets into a DIPA. this is due to the equipment i have on hand, that is to say in my normal primary there is a RIS awaiting a cold crash so all i have to primary in is a Better Bottle (6 gal) and i have decided to take the advice:
1) after ferm stops in primary, add hop pellets. no bags, no mesh. dump 'em in.
2) dry hop for about 5 days.
3) cold crash for 3 days @ 35 degrees. then bottle.

sound about right?
Sounds like it will work! I can never seem to get all of the pellets away from the finished beer. This time around I dry hopped with a mix of pellets in a bag and whole cones floating. We'll see how it goes....
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:32 PM   #34
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cool! i think im gonna use a small mesh bag (like bridal veil fabric) and a hair tie to catch the clumps as they come out of the siphon.
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Old 03-20-2013, 02:16 AM   #35
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Would cold crashing the yeast before dry hopping mess with your beers ability to carbonate properly once your ready to bottle??
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:10 PM   #36
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In response to the title of this thread, I usually do both. I found that I get more aroma this way than adding all of the dryhops at once.

Assuming 4 total oz. loose pellet dryhops split into 2 oz. additions:

3-4 days dryhop in primary
5-6 days dryhop in secondary (cold crash w/gelatin last 2-3 days)

When racking from primary to secondary, and then secondary to bottling bucket, wrap a sanitized nylon mesh bag around the auto-siphon to filter out the trub.
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Old 11-29-2013, 01:33 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EyePeeA
When racking from primary to secondary, and then secondary to bottling bucket, wrap a sanitized nylon mesh bag around the auto-siphon to filter out the trub.
I I tried this once, and the mesh (I used muslin) sack really introduced a lot of air into the auto-siphon... It was quite "bubbly" as it rack into the secondary. I worried about oxidation. Just bottled the beer, though, so I it hasn't conditioned yet. It's only 8 beers (from a one gal batch) though, so it probably won't last long enough to get oxidized off-flavors, I'm hoping...

Getting ready to dry hop my next batch, and am wondering about method. Have decided to just do it in primary, but am wondering if I should just throw them in loose (pellets, 1 oz), or put them in a bag. And if in a bag, should I put sanitized marbles in it so it sinks down? Thanks for any advice...
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:42 AM   #38
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It wasn't the mesh of the muslin bag that introduced the air, it was the seal of the piston of the autosiphon. The muslin bag was a bit too tight of mesh and it cause the air to be sucked around the piston. One possible solution for this is to put a little water or beer down the opening at the top of the autosiphon so it would improve the seal. Another possibility is to use a nylon or polyester mesh bag as it may let the beer through with less restriction.
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Old 11-29-2013, 05:00 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RM-MN
It wasn't the mesh of the muslin bag that introduced the air, it was the seal of the piston of the autosiphon. The muslin bag was a bit too tight of mesh and it cause the air to be sucked around the piston. One possible solution for this is to put a little water or beer down the opening at the top of the autosiphon so it would improve the seal. Another possibility is to use a nylon or polyester mesh bag as it may let the beer through with less restriction.
Good call. I do have some 1 gal nylon paint strainer bags that would probably work better than the muslin, then. Thx for the tip...
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Old 05-11-2014, 05:22 PM   #40
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Too many yeast in suspension, maybe
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