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Old 06-09-2012, 06:42 PM   #11
BigJay13
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Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STLExpat
Tossed the hops in a few days ago. Still smells ok, but is it supposed to look like this?

Didn't cold crash it before hand due to lack of fridge space
Is that the primary? If so that's fine. Also if you transferred onto those hops sometimes the thick hops sludge sticks to the top before it spreads out and drops through the beer. Rdwhahb

 
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Old 06-09-2012, 10:34 PM   #12
FATC1TY
 
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I like to rack to secondary when I dry hop. I've used whole leaf hops in a bag, and pellets.

I understand the added risk of making it oxidized and all that good stuff, but I've found that pretty hard to do if you are careful and use a siphon. Cleaning a secondary isn't that hard, and I have found that, again- depending on your racking skills, can help clear your beer..

Plus, I like to have something to do. I don't have a massive pipeline of beers fermenting, usually something lately, but I like the act of racking the beer. Gives me the opportunity to look at it, learn, taste, test the gravity, and compare and take notes for my brew book.

 
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Old 06-10-2012, 12:01 AM   #13
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I always dry hop in primary. I use whole hops in a nylon bag. I usually dry hop from day 9-14 and then bottle.
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:40 PM   #14
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A+ I only dry hop in the primary so simple no fuss.
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:50 AM   #15
BigBeer4All
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i avoid dry hopping in primary. i secondary almost all my beers and i dont want the co2 sending the precious volatiles on their way out of my carboy.

most recent IPA was in primary for 6 days, seconday with dry hop for 14(3oz pellets), then bottle conditioned for 21 days. hop flavor and aroma is amazing (no grassy-ness) and hasnt started to fade out yet, 6 weeks or so after bottling.
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:52 AM   #16
MacGruber
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When dry hopping in primary you need to wait until the active fermentation is over before adding the hops. I usually do two weeks, dry hop for one week. My beers have been turning over in about three weeks on average.

 
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:55 PM   #17
ColumbusAmongus
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I have done both primary and secondary (either or, not both in the same batch). I have been of the school of thought that agrees with what Jameel says which is wait for the bubbles to stop so the gas doesn't carry out hop aromas.

I have to say though, after going back and forth, I think that primary dry hopping gives me better flavor. The only thing that I think is to ones advantage to do it in the primary is that the yeast really churn up the beer so you get constant 24/7 mixing where if you do it in the secondary, the hops just settle out (pellets) and aren't really mixed around unless you shake it up.

 
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:32 AM   #18
Malthead
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If you use a hop sock for any kind of hops when dry hopping, do you squeeze the bag when it's pulled from the fermenter? All sanitary precautions taken.

 
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:36 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malthead
If you use a hop sock for any kind of hops when dry hopping, do you squeeze the bag when it's pulled from the fermenter? All sanitary precautions taken.
I've done it dozens of times, with no particular regard for sanitation (I mean I don't do it right after eating a plate of nachos, but I certainly don't try to sanitize my hands) and it works great, never had a problem. That's some good stuff that's soaked up in those hops, and leaf hops hold a ton of beer.

 
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:42 AM   #20
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I dry hop with pellets in primary. Dump 'em in, let 'em sit for 3 or 4 days at ambient and then cold crash. At about 7 days the hops have all sunk to the bottom and the beer is cold and ready to keg. When I rack I use a 5 gallon paint strainer bag over the auto siphon, never get any hop particles and I get amazing hop aroma this way.

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