Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks > Bottom Drain - Sanke Valve on Top or Welded into the Bottom
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:17 PM   #1
Tom_FL
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Default Bottom Drain - Sanke Valve on Top or Welded into the Bottom

I have three kegs for my new rig and have decided to go bottom drain on all three. Now I am trying to figure out if it makes more sense to flip them over and use the sanke valve or keep them right side up and just add a drain to the bottom.

Any thoughts or pros/cons?


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Old 05-31-2012, 10:21 PM   #2
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Depends if you are going gas or electric.


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Old 05-31-2012, 10:44 PM   #3
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The advantage to flipping the kegs is that a 2" tri-clamp fitting will fit nicely on the sankey neck, so there's no need to build a bulkhead fitting. The nice thing about leaving the kegs upright is that you'll still have the handles on top for maneuvering the kegs around.

I don't see how going gas or electric makes any difference between two kegs that are both bottom drain. If you plan on gas firing a bottom drain vessel, either make sure that the drain doesn't have any incline whatsoever, or you'll need to be very diligent about making sure to purge the air from the plumbing before firing the burner up. DAMHIKT.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:44 PM   #4
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Sorry should have mentioned that I will be going electric.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:49 PM   #5
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The tri-clamp is certainly an easy option but silver soldering in a welding spud seems pretty straight forward as well. Have the handles is certainly a benefit but I also like the idea of having a mice big opening for clean out of the MLT.
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Old 06-01-2012, 02:02 AM   #6
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I had my machinist at work tap a 3/4" FPT hole in a 2" tri-clover cap to thread a nipple and ball valve into. Looking back, I should have gone to a 1" ball valve and hole to better flow the tremendous break material and hop debris that I get from my 6-row recipes. All-in-all it works really well though.
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Old 06-01-2012, 02:24 AM   #7
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I am building my brewery on bottom drains. The only disadvantage I can see is that the boil kettle will be bottom drain. Screening out the trub is a little more dificult due to the fact that you can not whirlpool and drain. I plan to remidy this by recirculating my wort through my hop spider for a few minutes to catch hot break and any hop matter that escaped my strainer bag.
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Old 06-01-2012, 02:42 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huaco
I am building my brewery on bottom drains. The only disadvantage I can see is that the boil kettle will be bottom drain. Screening out the trub is a little more dificult due to the fact that you can not whirlpool and drain. I plan to remidy this by recirculating my wort through my hop spider for a few minutes to catch hot break and any hop matter that escaped my strainer bag.
That's a good idea. I was planning to go the hop spider route as well and a few minutes of recirculation makes a lot if sense. How are you setting your bottom drains up?

At this point I am leaning towards putting in a 1" FNPT into the bottom of a keg.
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Old 06-01-2012, 03:06 AM   #9
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I drain off my wort through the side of the keggle to leave most of the hop debris and break material in the keggle and then use the bottom dump to CIP.
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Old 06-01-2012, 03:08 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom_FL View Post
That's a good idea. I was planning to go the hop spider route as well and a few minutes of recirculation makes a lot if sense. How are you setting your bottom drains up?

At this point I am leaning towards putting in a 1" FNPT into the bottom of a keg.
You honestly don't want to go too big on your drain. I plan to just stay with 1/2" fittings. If you go too big, you will start to have channeling issues through the mash in your MLT.

I plan to build my outputs as follows:

-HOLE IN BREW STAND TOP
-SANKE SPEAR HOLE
-2" TRICLAMP SILICONE GASKET w/ONE SIDE TRIMMED FLAT (very easy to do with a razor blade)
-2" TRICLAMP CLAMP
-2" TRICLAP TO 1/2"NPTF ADAPTER
-2" LONG 1/2 PIPE NIPPLE
-1/2" BALL VALVE
-(WHAT ERVER QUICK CONNECT YOU CHOSE)
-SILICONE HOSE TO PUMP


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