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Old 05-29-2012, 09:56 PM   #1
fargo234
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Jan 2011
Houston, TX
Posts: 45
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Ok. Here we go.

I've brewed big beers before, but quit and composted the grains pretty much without a second thought. And then I got to thinking about the next brew I'm putting together. I'm doing a barleywine with O.G. 1.093. Now, after mashing and sparging for a 5 gallon batch (6.5 gallon boil) I'm thinking there's enough awesome left in those 23 lbs of grains that might make it worth running some more hot water through.

Can't find where others have done enough of this to anticipate how much wort I should get from it and at what S.G.

Thoughts? Ideas?



 
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:00 PM   #2
smokinj
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Aug 2010
Emporia, KS
Posts: 171
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Search "partigyle brewing". There is a lot of info available, along with calculators, formulas, etc. I cant post a link at the moment, but someone probably will. If not I'll find one when i get home.



 
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:02 PM   #3
cheezydemon3
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Nov 2009
louisville
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Have 3 lbs DME on hand just in case, (no shame in it) and partigyle away!


Waste not, want not.

 
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Old 05-30-2012, 12:16 AM   #4
fargo234
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Jan 2011
Houston, TX
Posts: 45
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I found a number of parti-gyle articles, charts and even some calculators. But none of them really work for me.

I plan on mashing exactly what I need to get 6.5 gallons pre-boil volume for my barley wine that, if all goes well, will have an O.G. of 1.093. What I need to know is how much water, at what temp, to run through the grist for the second runnings to get a pre-boil volume for the second Batch O'Brew.

It'd be handy if the calculator would let me enter in my desired post-boil O.G. so that it would calculate for me how much water to mash/sparge with.

 
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Old 05-30-2012, 04:55 PM   #5
smokinj
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Aug 2010
Emporia, KS
Posts: 171
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Based on one of the calculators I found, if your recipe is built to yield a beer that is 1.093, then you should expect to get a second beer of the same volume that is around 1.047. Of course it will vary with your efficiency, but that should be close. So what you'd want to do is get you're preboil volume for the big beer into your first kettle, then continue sparging and draining into your second kettle until you reach the same volume in that one. Again, there will be variables, such as different boil times, etc, but that's the gist. Have fun, and make sure not to lose focus on the big beer for the sake of the small one, it's just a bonus.

 
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Old 05-30-2012, 09:14 PM   #6
fargo234
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Jan 2011
Houston, TX
Posts: 45
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I've accounted for a 60% mash efficiency when putting together my recipes. Rather simple ones at that.

Batch 1 - Barleywine

20.7 lbs American Two-Row Pale
2.4 lbs Cyrstal 60
4 oz. Chinnook at 90 minutes
2 oz. Cascade at 1 minute
1 oz. Centennial at 1 minute
WLP001 California Ale (2 tubes, 1.17 liter starter depending on production date)

Batch 2 - Common Ale

1 oz. Kent Goldings 60 min
1 oz. Crystal 15 min
0.5 oz Williamette 1 min
WLP001 California Ale (1 liter starter)

I plan on mashing with my full pre-boil volume at 148F for 60 min. Once drained into my kettle, I plan on adding 6.5 gallons water at 154-ish to the tun and letting it mash during the Batch 1 boil.

When ready, I'll mash out that batch. Then I'll do the same for a third batch. The calcs I've run indicate I should get an O.G. of 1.023 for Batch three.

Batch 3 - Bonus Brew

1.25 DME Extra Light
0.75 oz. Magnum 60 min
0.5 oz. Cascade 15 min
0.5 oz. Cascade 1 min
WLP005 British Ale

My only concern is there will be no raising the grist to 168F for the sparge. In all the articles I've read nobody actually "sparges" at the raised temp. They always take their runnings and run. This technique doesn't seem to be very popular.

Here's a thought. What if instead of mashing during the Batch 1 boil, I just wait. When I'm ready for Batch 2 I add hot water to the grains until 168 is reached. Let it rest. Drain. Sparge with 168 water until my Batch 2 pre-boil volume is reached. And then repeat for batch 3.



 
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