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Old 05-30-2012, 06:19 PM   #11
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Hmm, on my test run everything ran perfectly and has been since I turned it on


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Old 05-30-2012, 07:41 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by divi2323 View Post
yay! a search pulled up a thread similar to my situation. Have a question for your external relay setup as well. I've got a similar temp controller (one channel only for cooling though). Seems as though my compressor draw amperage is higher than the rated capacity of the switching controller internally. (5 amps on the controller circuit vs 5 amps operating draw on the compressor, meaning the draw to get the compressor motor going is more than 5) My compressor will not kick on when the circut detects it's time to start cooling. My solution is going to be an external relay but i'm not sure which type of relay to use.

my switching circuit is 120v/5A, but the power side of the relay needs to be 120v/10A or 15A. I've found some relays on radio-shaft's website, but not sure what i need. Can you maybe elaborate on what relay i would need to drive it? SPDT, DPDT etc?
Should just be a SPST SSR with a load rating of at least 10A and AC control rated for at least 110V. I use Crydom SSR's on my BCS-460-based HERMS. Mine are DC controlled 20A SSR's that I got off ebay a few years ago for around $8. You might have to shop around a bit to find a decent price. The panel mount SSR's are pretty cool in that they're compact and easy to mount. These ones are like mine.


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Old 05-30-2012, 09:41 PM   #13
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those controllers are pretty slick ,anyone know if they make one that controls time instead of temp?
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:28 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Huaco View Post
Would the fuse block go inline between the power-in line and the component? Would it just be a 10 Amp fuse to protect the 10 Amp controller?
Also, could you expand on your external relay idea? I plan to control a refrigerator or a deep freeze with mine that I built this weekend, but have not put it under load yet...
ether side would work, I put it inline with income power. I would use a 10 amp slow blow type, or a 12/14 amp regular blow. Motors have a significant in rush current that can burn a fast blow fuse.

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Originally Posted by gatorbite87
Hmm, on my test run everything ran perfectly and has been since I turned it on
Sorry gatorbite87, I'm going to take you to the wood shed over this. The point of a fuse is to prevent a fire when things don't "run perfectly" The outlet in your wall has at worst a 20 amp circuit breaker. The controller is rated for 10 amps. You need a fuse. Have you see this guy:


this is what I did:



basically there are two SSR one for each side (Heat / Cool) the ones I found were 40 amp but can be triggered by 12~24 vdc/ac The two diodes are 1 amp rectifiers. Ether heat or cool come on the fan will run and the diodes give (albeit lumpy) dc to a computer fan inside to keep air moving. If your SSR's can handle ac input adding a diode or 4 with a cap to the output of the transformer will make them happier.

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Originally Posted by vinper
those controllers are pretty slick ,anyone know if they make one that controls time instead of temp?
what your looking for is called a process timer. I have one that i scrounged many years ago, just a quick look through ebay it don't look like it. there are other ones from omega and the like but the sellers want unreasonable amounts of money for them!!!! What range of timing are you looking for? What kind of outputs?
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:58 PM   #15
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Would it be possible to add a fuse like the one below to the incoming AC line?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102786

If so, this might be a simpler option for those with less wiring experience to safely use these controllers...
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:40 PM   #16
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yep that will work, just add a 10 amp fuse and your good.
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:01 PM   #17
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Would you put this inline with the hot wire from the power source or after the controller itself
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:21 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by gatorbite87 View Post
Would you put this inline with the hot wire from the power source or after the controller itself
Seems like before would actually protect the controller better... that is just my ignorant advise though! haha!
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:34 PM   #19
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Before the controller is correct.

link
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Old 06-01-2012, 11:33 PM   #20
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Yea that makes sense. :facepalm:


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