220V --> SSR --> 5500W Heating Element Question - Home Brew Forums
Register Now For Free!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > 220V --> SSR --> 5500W Heating Element Question

Thread Tools
Old 05-17-2012, 10:53 PM   #1
May 2012
Thousand Oaks, California
Posts: 5

I'm in the process of building my electric brewery. I've been researching the various ways to supply power to the heating elements (1x SSR, 2x SSR's, Switch to Mechanical Relay to SSR).

It seems like using a switch and mechanical relay is the preferred method, mostly due to safety.

My initial thought was to run both hot leads to the L1 post of the SSR, and then from the T1 post, split the wire and connect it to each post of the heating element. Since there is no neutral wire in play (just a ground wire), I can't see why this wouldn't work.

Having not seen anybody else wire it up this way, I'm fairly certain it isn't appropriate. However, I'm hoping someone can tell me why.



Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2012, 02:04 AM   #2
Feb 2011
North Central, Ohio
Posts: 509
Liked 31 Times on 22 Posts

I don't think I follow what you have in mind - can you post a drawing?

Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2012, 02:20 AM   #3
conpewter's Avatar
Nov 2007
East Dundee, Illinois
Posts: 5,109
Liked 54 Times on 49 Posts

I may not quite understand what you are saying, but DO NOT run both hot leads to one post on the SSR... they'll short out and trip your breaker. You want to run one of the hots through the SSR, the other connects directly to one side of the element. The manual switch (I have a 30 amp Double pole double throw switch) is for turning off both sides of the 220V feed.

When you cut one of the hots the element will be inactive. With my element you can touch the wort, element etc when one hot is cut, but cutting both when you are going to mess with it is a good idea none the less.

Also I really recommend having a GFCI breaker or some sort of GFCI in line to protect you further.
"People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people." - V

Primary: Nothin
Secondary: Shady Lord RIS, Water to Barleywine, Pumpkin wine, burnt mead
Kegged: Crappy infected mild
Bottles: Apfelwein, 999 Barleywine, Oatmeal Stout, Robust Porter, Robust smoked porter, Simcoe Smash

Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2012, 02:28 AM   #4
l3asturd's Avatar
Dec 2011
Visalia, CA
Posts: 461
Liked 10 Times on 8 Posts

Here's my example of a similar setup:

Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2012, 02:33 AM   #5
May 2012
Thousand Oaks, California
Posts: 5

excuse the drawings...unfortunately, it's the best I could come up with. Also, I know I left out the ground wires...just trying to simplify it.

My proposed method:

Suggested method using 1 SSR:

Thanks in advance for the enlightenment I'm sure I'm about to receive :-)

Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2012, 02:34 AM   #6
cscade's Avatar
Feb 2009
Wooster, Ohio
Posts: 450
Liked 18 Times on 14 Posts

l3asturd; your diagram is identical to Kal's design (theelectricbrewery). It's a good design.

To the original poster; what you're talking about is a dead short, and certainly will not work. It also shows a dangerous lack of understanding. Please, please do a lot more research before you start fiddling with this stuff. Be safe!

Seeker Brewing Co.
est. 2008
Build Thread - Blog

Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2012, 02:55 AM   #7
Waste Allocation Load Lifter - Earth Class
passedpawn's Avatar
Apr 2009
☼ Clearwater, FL ☼
Posts: 27,074
Liked 7216 Times on 4289 Posts

OP: Although those two wires are both 120V (wrt gnd), they are AC and 180 degree out of phase. Like previous posters said, it's a dead short.
- Andrew

Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2012, 02:30 PM   #8
Feb 2010
Pensacola, Florida
Posts: 634
Liked 16 Times on 15 Posts

You can't run both legs of your 240 off one post on the ssr. Putting both there will cause a short and probably some fire. Basically the ssr controls one leg while the other is constantly there. You should have a switch between the ssr and element as well, so the element gets no power until you are ready to start heating water.
Originally Posted by djsethall View Post
It's like a big hot douche for my brewery.

Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2012, 03:49 PM   #9
ajm163's Avatar
Jan 2012
Denver, CO
Posts: 194
Liked 6 Times on 4 Posts

or you could just get a dual output relay to control both hot legs like this one


Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2012, 04:08 PM   #10
Bsquared's Avatar
Oct 2006
San Diego
Posts: 1,851
Liked 67 Times on 59 Posts

For added safety I, and others interrupt the red line in your second drawing with a Mechanical relay. I have this relay, but there are others you can use. I control it with a selector switch that will close it when I want power to that element. I have a micro controller (BCS-460) that controls the SSR, which is the main controller for the element.

Reply With Quote
Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
GFI breakers and wiring a 220v heating element CanadianNorth Electric Brewing 7 05-27-2011 01:14 PM
Heating Element Switch Question JrZyBud Electric Brewing 9 05-19-2011 06:24 PM
Question about the Camco Mfg 5500W 240V Ripp Element 2963 GRHunter Electric Brewing 5 04-03-2011 11:49 PM
question about heating element stoneyrok Electric Brewing 13 03-25-2011 11:25 AM
120v on 220v element? hatrickwah Electric Brewing 34 03-07-2011 09:14 PM

Forum Jump