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Old 05-14-2012, 10:14 PM   #11
jtejedor
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Sep 2010
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Not to tell you what to do but wouldn't bottle conditioning be more desirable? I have always read its ideal for beers you want to age for a while and the beer is supposed to stay stable longer.

 
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:18 PM   #12
Soma
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Nov 2010
Backwardsville, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtejedor View Post
Not to tell you what to do but wouldn't bottle conditioning be more desirable? I have always read its ideal for beers you want to age for a while and the beer is supposed to stay stable longer.
With a beer this huge, bottle conditioning is a big risk. It may take months to carbonate or it may never carbonate at all, which is a huge disappointment (just ask Tomme). Force carbing big beers is a safer bet for me, I do on anything that requires 'freshness' or anything above 10% abv.

 
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:25 PM   #13
Brewpastor
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Thanks for the suggestion of bottle conditioning, but I don't want to mess around with this beer. I want it carbonated at the right level and I am not worried about stability here. At @14% and over 100 IBUs it is pretty stable. I also brewed and fermented with great care and an eye towards aging. Besides, with a fifth of bourbon and toasted american oak, I think it will be hard to tell the difference. I am wax sealing these to help control O2 pick-up as well. They will also be sitting in my dark cold room at a constant 45 degrees. I would like to see taste the micros that can match the quality control this beer has been through!
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Old 05-15-2012, 12:43 AM   #14
KYB
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Jan 2009
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Yea I did exactly what you're doing, force carbed until I got the perfect carbonation - a touch on the high side, for the style, to make up for a little lost from bottling. I did a lot of quality control (samples) on this step . Bottled with the blichman beer gun, waxed, and a year later perfect carbonation and flavor. I used homebrew store wax beads (pricey). It should be black but it's a touch purple when thin. I layed it on fairly thick though. I have also heard of glue sticks and crayons (add until you reach the color you want). Going to try that next time.

 
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Old 05-15-2012, 12:31 PM   #15
ao125
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Oct 2010
Alexandria, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ODaniel View Post
I used homebrew store wax beads (pricey). It should be black but it's a touch purple when thin. I layed it on fairly thick though. I have also heard of glue sticks and crayons (add until you reach the color you want). Going to try that next time.
http://www.swanscandles.com/store/ca...lies.html#2720
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Old 05-15-2012, 03:29 PM   #16
KYB
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Yea the homebrew wax was like that, just a dollar or 2 more per pound. I was thinking the glue (gun) sticks and crayons would be a lot cheaper. While you get a bunch of sticks, it looks like the total weight is under 5 ounces (25 sticks), for $4. Maybe I'll just get those wax beads and toss some crayons in color adjustment. I'm about to wax one and I want a deep red. Thanks for the link.

 
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Old 05-15-2012, 03:50 PM   #17
ao125
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Oct 2010
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We recommend melting the beads in soup cans in a double broiler; no mess to clean up and any unused portion may be left in the can for remelting later on.
That's a hell of an idea. I'll have to try that.
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Old 05-15-2012, 04:10 PM   #18
KYB
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Yea that's what I did. Next time I may use a bigger bean can, especially since I'm doing 750s.

 
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