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Old 02-01-2013, 03:21 PM   #21
sjbeerman
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Jan 2011
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I have an MM2 and my gap is set to 0.043. For OGs between 1.06-1.07, I get around 75% efficiencies, <1.060 I get 75-80%, 1.080+ I get around 70%. When using my cordless drill, it took me almost an hour to crush the grain because I had to keep charging the battery and switching to the spare battery. I now use a corded drill and it takes less than 10 min.
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Old 02-12-2013, 04:42 AM   #22
drkwoods
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Just to clarify cause I feel like some people are calculating efficiency incorrectly. Are most of us talking Mash efficiency? Or overall efficiency(into fermenter) ? Because 70% into the fermenter is average. 70% mash efficiency sucks
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:59 AM   #23
rbenn
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Oct 2011
, Michigan
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I use my MM2 at the default 45 setting and double mill. I'm not sure how much the double milling affects the efficiency but I get around 80%. Seems like many people have their mill gap set much lower. May need to try 40 and see if I can get around 85% efficiency.

 
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:00 AM   #24
Gartywood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drkwoods View Post
Just to clarify cause I feel like some people are calculating efficiency incorrectly. Are most of us talking Mash efficiency? Or overall efficiency(into fermenter) ? Because 70% into the fermenter is average. 70% mash efficiency sucks
There are many that would argue that 70-80% and consistent mash efficiencys are ideal for making the best quality beer. I run between 75 and 80% and am really happy with the results.

Also I get about the same mash efficiency with my MM2 at 1.042 or 1.035.

 
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:19 PM   #25
drkwoods
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gartywood

There are many that would argue that 70-80% and consistent mash efficiencys are ideal for making the best quality beer. I run between 75 and 80% and am really happy with the results.

Also I get about the same mash efficiency with my MM2 at 1.042 or 1.035.
ok just to make sure we are talking the same thing, because I just spoke with a guy at the LHBS who claims 95% efficiency.. I told him you mean Mash eff and he says No total efficiency.. Mash Efficiency is how much sugar the MASH itself produces relative to hypothetical maximum yields . To Check Mash efficiency get the Gravity of mash befor sparge (With 37 pts per pound of 2 row being the average lintner)
It's the gravity points obtained divided by the 100% possible gravity points
So 10# 2-row in 4 gal mash water = 37pts x lbs / gal. 370/4=92.5 max yield efficiency in points (convert to gravity 1.092)
So at 100% efficiency I'd get a gravity reading after mash of 1.0925
If I got 1.083 reading (at the end of MASH before Sparge). I would divide that by 1.092 and get 90% mash efficiency ( 83/92= .90 X100 = 90% ) Thats a decent Mash efficiency. Total efficiency is the gravity points you still have when the wort reaches the fermenter.. Many people mix that up.. thats why its good to clarify which efficiency your talking about. In my system I consistently get 80% Mash effc, but cant seem to get better then 70% into the fermentor.. So in this scenario above i would expect a OG in the fermenter of 1.062 Is it my crush?
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Old 02-14-2013, 06:20 PM   #26
jammin
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Efficiency into the fermenter is not as helpful as kettle efficiency IMHO. At least when speaking of recipes.

I think mash efficiency is a good indicator of your crush though.

 
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:03 PM   #27
Gartywood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drkwoods View Post
ok just to make sure we are talking the same thing, because I just spoke with a guy at the LHBS who claims 95% efficiency.. I told him you mean Mash eff and he says No total efficiency.. Mash Efficiency is how much sugar the MASH itself produces relative to hypothetical maximum yields . To Check Mash efficiency get the Gravity of mash befor sparge (With 37 pts per pound of 2 row being the average lintner)
It's the gravity points obtained divided by the 100% possible gravity points
So 10# 2-row in 4 gal mash water = 37pts x lbs / gal. 370/4=92.5 max yield efficiency in points (convert to gravity 1.092)
So at 100% efficiency I'd get a gravity reading after mash of 1.0925
If I got 1.083 reading (at the end of MASH before Sparge). I would divide that by 1.092 and get 90% mash efficiency ( 83/92= .90 X100 = 90% ) Thats a decent Mash efficiency. Total efficiency is the gravity points you still have when the wort reaches the fermenter.. Many people mix that up.. thats why its good to clarify which efficiency your talking about. In my system I consistently get 80% Mash effc, but cant seem to get better then 70% into the fermentor.. So in this scenario above i would expect a OG in the fermenter of 1.062 Is it my crush?
I/beer alchemy calculate mash efficiency based on the amount of grain and the gravity points and volume after batch sparging Pre-boil gravity). For me this is the best measure of efficiency for recipe creation as I know how much I boil off and how much I leave in the kettle. So I aim for a 75% efficiency into the kettle, 6 gallons at the end of the boil, and 5.25 into the fermenter. Losing .75 gallons on 6 gallons it looks like my overall efficiency ranges about 66%. All in all I'm really happy with the quality of the beer and the consistency of my results.

I'm interested in checking actual mash efficiency now though and I will on my next brew.

 
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:44 PM   #28
MaxOut
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I am by no means an expert but I do know to calculate mash efficiency you need to have an accurate way to measure weight and volumes. I love when someone says I get 95% efficiency" and go on to say you dont need to be so particular about measuring volumes or have no data on the specific grain they used. Mash efficiency will vary depending on mash temps, system types, crush, grain types etc. Another variable is the specific grains you use. Not all Two-Row has the same potential and to be accurate you would need the specific grain lab results to calculate and even then there is still a margin of error.

Brew house efficiency is determined by the total amount of beer that ends up in your kegs or bottles and is an indicator of your total brew house losses. In many cases hoppy beers will result in lesser brew house efficiency due to the wort lost in hop/trub in your fermenter/boil kettle. It also factors wort lost in plate chillers and associated plumbing.

I focus on consistency. Dial your crush in to the tightest you can without damaging the husk's or creating system issues. I use a false bottom, recirculation during mash and fly sparge. So my crush may be too fine for another system. You need to start at .045 and tighten until the husks get damaged or you get system issues like stuck mash.

Mash efficiency = % of potential extracted
Brew house efficiency = % of potential extracted that makes it to your glass after losses.

I highly recommend brewing the same beer a few times while dialing in your system and crush so you can make adjustments based on information obtained under controlled conditions. I brewed the same beer over 15 times until my system was dialed in and got to the point that I did not even need to take gravity readings until the wort hit the fermenter.

 
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Old 04-03-2013, 12:48 AM   #29
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My calculations are a bit more scientific and may confuse a few of you but here goes anyway. I'll try to simplify.

x=drinky and y= likey and p = perfecto.

Therefore if I drinky AND likey, it's perfecto! (x+y) = p

I crush at .038 to achieve this, your results may differ.

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Old 04-03-2013, 05:37 PM   #30
Crito
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I just use beer smith. My last brew day both were in the low 80 percent range.

Could be plus or minus up to a few points due to my laziness on measuring the precise amount of liquids.

Crush (for me). Depends if the husk is empty. Not to torn up and equal amount of flour and small bits of grain. 60 or 90 minute mash will get most sugars/starch out.

 
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