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Old 05-15-2012, 10:31 PM   #21
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Hey Madness!
My suggestions would be to add the extract later. It helps to avoid a cooked extract tase (which I've never experienced, but I hear it's not desirable) and you'll maintain the desired color.
Are you sure? Earlier Yooper said, "If you decide to do a full boil, follow the instructions with when to add malt/hops." I am doing a full boil. Also I have 6 lbs of lme and 3 of dme if I remember correctly. Are you saying to add it all at the end? I just want this to be as close to Pliny as possible, or better so if adding it at the end will create a similar taste, I will do this. Does anybody else concur with this?


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Old 05-16-2012, 12:05 PM   #22
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Follow what Yooper says, imho. She's way more experienced, and may very well have done the exact same recipe you're doing already.

Just as my input, I usually add about half of my LME in the beginning when instructed (for possibly better hop extract? honestly I don't know. I'm no scientist), then the rest of my LME/DME at the end. Call it personal preference, but I don't see how a full boil protects your wort from the "negatives" of cooking your Malt Extract.


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Old 05-16-2012, 01:54 PM   #23
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Extract time in boil seems to be more of a factor of beer color then flavor. there was an article in Brew about it. ill see if i can find it.
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:33 PM   #24
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Thanks guys. I honestly do not care about color at all, just the taste
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Old 05-16-2012, 10:19 PM   #25
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I'm in the same situation with brewing one of my first batches as a Pliny clone. I will be brewing a ten gallon batch. Shoul I start with 10 1/2 gallons of water to account for boil evap? I have a 14.5 gallon brew pot.
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:13 PM   #26
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Bump
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:36 PM   #27
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Most people factor in half to a full gallon of water lost to evaporation in a full boil per hour. I've searched "boil off" with the search tool and found that people have lost as much as 2 gallons on a 10 gallon boil. So I would suggest starting with 11gal and going from there. Adding in extra boiled water at the end to top up to 10 gal won't hurt, and it would be quicker than boiling down.

Also: Be sure to review the rules about posting in threads related to bumping. The moderators here are really nice, so make sure to keep their jobs easy by not giving them any to coach you on!
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:50 PM   #28
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I apologize for the poor etiquette. I will indeed review the rules. Thank you for the advice!
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Old 05-19-2012, 03:23 PM   #29
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Question for you all. I'm looking at the recipe Vinnie published in Zymurgy in 2009 and it doesn't specify adding priming sugar for bottling. I've only done a few batches but have always done this step. Is it not necessary for this recipe. If so, why not? Thanks!
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Old 05-19-2012, 03:47 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkendrick View Post
Question for you all. I'm looking at the recipe Vinnie published in Zymurgy in 2009 and it doesn't specify adding priming sugar for bottling. I've only done a few batches but have always done this step. Is it not necessary for this recipe. If so, why not? Thanks!
Yes, it is necessary. It's probably just not a step added to the recipe, as it's just something that people do with packaging, unless they keg.

I like 1 ounce of corn sugar (by weight) per finished gallon of beer. I "lose" lots of beer to dryhopping so when I make Pliny, I end up with about 4.25-4.5 gallons of finished beer if I make a 5 gallon batch!


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