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Old 08-17-2012, 01:33 PM   #61
kzimmer0817
 
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Regarding the following 2 photos from Spikebrewing:

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpikeBrewing View Post
***BIG Update***
Camco 02963 5500W 240V water heater element installed


Heater element screwed in with gasket
Would it not be quite easy to install a Kal-like electrical box to this? Perhaps like that of the DIYers who use a single gang box instead of the double. Would placing the metal plate of the enclosure between the gasket and the element (or between gasket and kettle) provide for a water tight enclosure?

Another question: Since I am interested in the 10 gallon kettle: Ben mentioned that he was considering making the 10 gallon kettle the 110/120V and using 220V in the 15+ gallon kettles. From what I've read on these forums, I have been under the impression that it's difficult to bring 6-7 gallons (pre-boil volumes for 5g BIAB batches) to a boil using the elements available at 120V. True, some guys are doing this with 2 elements connected to separate circuits, but I only want the simplicity of a single element/circuit.

Thanks,
Keith

Reason: Added another question

 
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:54 PM   #62
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You will have a hard time boiling a 5g. batch (~6.5g boil) with a single 120v element, yes. I can attest to this. A 2000w LWD element would be your best bet, but it still would take 26 minutes from 160* to get to a boil...guess that's not horrible, but that's also at 95% efficiency which means you better insulate the kettle well, too.

Now, as a HLT, no problem. You're probably crushing grain and doing other things while heating strike-water anyways.
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:54 PM   #63
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Couplers look good. Looking forward to a complete plug in play. I've got time to wait
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Old 08-18-2012, 02:24 PM   #64
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I hate to keep beating the horse, but I'd like to restate the question that I asked three postings up. I'm hoping that knowledgeable folks who have built e-kettles will offer answers.

[Looking at the photo of the element installed into the fitting on the new Spikebrewing e-kettle] Would it not be quite easy to install a Kal-like electrical box to this? Perhaps like that of the DIYers who use a single gang box instead of the double. Would placing the metal plate of the enclosure between the gasket and the element (or between gasket and kettle) provide for a water tight enclosure?

I am about to either (1) build an e-kettle out of the keg I just cut or (2) purchase one of these from Spike Brewing. At first glance, and after reading thru Kal's description of his build, I don't see why it wouldn't work to place the metal cover plate between the element and the gasket in this above photo.

Impatiently, but respectfully,
Keith

 
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Old 08-18-2012, 05:30 PM   #65
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Would be better to place the element connections on the inside of the box and let the element face make the seal. Attach the back of the element to the box. That way if there is a leak it won't be inside the box with the connections

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/sho...ml#post2506114

Hole needs to be 1" conduit punch or 1 & 3/8" wide I believe

Also, take a look at BoobyM's welding spuds and the silver soldering thread for the element connections to the kettle.
Good luck
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:08 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DustBow View Post
Would be better to place the element connections on the inside of the box and let the element face make the seal. Attach the back of the element to the box. That way if there is a leak it won't be inside the box with the connections
1. Exactly how do you attach the back of the element to the box?

2. If the element is screwed into a fitting as Spikebrewing will be doing, I would think that the attachment of the box to the element must be movable. What position will the box be in when the element has been tightened.

3. Element position isn't as important if the element is slid thru an opening in the kettle with the o-ring and nut being on the inside of the kettle.

Thanks,
Keith

 
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Old 08-19-2012, 02:57 AM   #67
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I may have answered my own question. Scroll down to postings #6 and #7 of the following thread:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/sho...you-do-212079/

If I'm looking at these correctly, this is exactly what I asked in my previous messages. The photo by hatfieldenator in message #6 of the above thread shows an element being screwed into a coupling just like what Spikebrewing will be doing. Same thing by trigger in #7 except that he used a single box.

Cut a hole in the metal box just large enough to slip over the element mount. pass the element thru the hole in the box, put the gasket onto the element, then screw the element into the threaded coupling.

I'd appreciate any comments,
Keith

 
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:23 PM   #68
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Nice! Will there be an option on the coupling placement?
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Old 08-24-2012, 03:29 AM   #69
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Well guys it's not looking good for the welded electric coupler. After discussing it with a lawyer friend they advised against it because of the high risk. So it looks like the months of machining, our planning and your planning might be in vein. We would love to see this happen but UL ratings, insurance, etc make this project very unappealing. It only takes one person to get hurt and we're hurting.

Sorry guys....
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Old 08-24-2012, 03:37 AM   #70
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What if I only want a 1"coupler welded on, I have a really big pump.

 
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