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Old 04-30-2012, 12:55 PM   #1
borny
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Nov 2011
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Quick question.... Currently, I biab and use a simple rims setup to maintain mash temps and a separate control box to power the boil kettle, but I want to ultimately combine the two into one control box. If I were to change this diagram to control a rims tube using 120 volt circuit, but still be able to use the the PID as a control for 240 volt boil kettle, how would I do that? Would I use a 2 pole center off switch, but just use only one hot wire that would power the 120 rims outlet? Or would it work better using contactors?




Thank you, Dan

 
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Old 04-30-2012, 12:56 PM   #2
borny
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Nov 2011
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Almost forgot the diagram.....

Click image for larger version

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Thanks again in advance!

 
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Old 05-03-2012, 01:10 AM   #3
borny
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Bump

Just checking if anyone has any ideas..

Thank you!

 
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:51 PM   #4
ryclo
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May 2011
marga, ritaville
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Just use the switched hot leg and neutral for your 120V rims element, easy!

 
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Old 05-04-2012, 10:26 PM   #5
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
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Mar 2010
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The diagram you posted is so very small that I cannot identify it.
Do you have the document ID name? (I'm the one that drew it.)

I'd be glad to redraw it for you with your planned setup.

P-J

 
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:37 AM   #6
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
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Mar 2010
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Dan,

After spending a bunch of time trying to find my drawing, I finally hit on pay dirt.

So with that said, you have 2 alternatives on how you want to set up your controller. I modified the original diagram to show 2 alternatives.

As always - click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")

This is the 120V version of the RIMS setup:



And this is the 240V version of the RIMS setup:



Either one will work with a 240V - 30A power feed.
I really hope this helps you.

P-J

 
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Old 05-05-2012, 07:14 PM   #7
borny
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Nov 2011
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Thanks for the feedback! Sorry for the slow response, had shoulder surgery earlier this week and I'm moving a bit slow. As soon as I can, I'm going to work on the control box.

Thanks P-J for the drawings! Kind of how I anticipated how it would look.

Right now, since the rims is set up for 120, I think I'm going to go the cheap route and just hook up the rims heater to a 120v circuit in the control box.



Thanks again!

 
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:34 PM   #8
ryclo
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May 2011
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The 120V diagram should have the hot wired to the switch contol leg. Its showing it always on which does not allow the pid to control your rims element.

 
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:38 PM   #9
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
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Mar 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryclo View Post
The 120V diagram should have the hot wired to the switch contol leg. Its showing it always on which does not allow the pid to control your rims element.
OUCH... I'll fix that and edit this post when it is done.

Getting old just plain sucks.!

So Very Sorry,
P-J

Edit: Well it is corrected. Just do a refresh and it will show properly now.

The good news? You are very smart. Enough to catch me in a screw up.
Thank you. It is important for me to present accurate information.

P-J

Reason: update and fix it.

 
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:02 PM   #10
ryclo
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May 2011
marga, ritaville
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that looks better, getting old does suck indeed! I like to blame it on beer most of the time!

 
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