Coldbreak Brewing Giveaway - Open to All!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Brew Science > Chasing pH
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 04-22-2012, 07:47 PM   #11
ajdelange
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: McLean/Ogden, Virginia/Quebec
Posts: 7,591
Liked 993 Times on 789 Posts
Likes Given: 28

Default

The Primer represents the experiences of its author. Bru'n water represents the experiences of its author. Those two brew different styles of beer using different techniques and, doubtless, take pH measurements at different times. In either case you are comparing 2 models (and there are others - the EZ spreadsheet for example gives results more consistent with the Primer). Models are models and none is perfect. That is why good pH measurement is so important. Primers and spreadsheets are fine for rough planning but you really need the measurement to confirm. This is why you must be confident in your meter readings. You aren't the first guy to have chased pH because of a drifting meter.

If you took readings you did, checked with the buffers and found the cal was good then we have a real problem trying to explain an initial mash pH of 5.8.

If you haven't already done so I would suggest reading the pH Calibration sticky and making sure that you are following all the recommendations there especially the inter sample/buffer DI water rinses, fresh buffer and uniform temperature ones.

You asked about getting grains out of the electrode. This is important for a couple of reasons. Obviously the bulb will sense the pH of whatever is in contact with it. This should be 100% the new solution - not partially a piece of grain from a previous sample. The other reason is that the most common cause of poor performance from a pH meter is obstruction of the junction (you will see three things sticking out the bottom of the electrode: 1)the bulb 2) an RTD or thermistor 3) the junction.) A piece of grain or husk could easily cover the junction.


ajdelange is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2012, 08:51 PM   #12
chilitom
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 13
Default

It seems pretty clear that something is amiss with my measurements. That I accept. And thanks for the info about measurement & calibration -- I'll check the sticky.

Not to belabor the point (although it's getting a little belabored by now anyway) ... but quite independent of any model, many people seem to be using RO or distilled water now. Is the general experience:

- I have to add some acid to achieve the target pH, except when brewing dark beers with a significant amount of roasted malt

or

- I have to add alkalinity to achieve the target pH, except for very light beers

Seems like there would be one answer to this, regardless of who is brewing the beer.



chilitom is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2012, 09:39 PM   #13
Yooper
Ale's What Cures You!
HBT_ADMIN.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Yooper's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: UP of Michigan
Posts: 65,125
Liked 5937 Times on 4232 Posts
Likes Given: 1515

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chilitom View Post
It seems pretty clear that something is amiss with my measurements. That I accept. And thanks for the info about measurement & calibration -- I'll check the sticky.

Not to belabor the point (although it's getting a little belabored by now anyway) ... but quite independent of any model, many people seem to be using RO or distilled water now. Is the general experience:

- I have to add some acid to achieve the target pH, except when brewing dark beers with a significant amount of roasted malt

or

- I have to add alkalinity to achieve the target pH, except for very light beers

Seems like there would be one answer to this, regardless of who is brewing the beer.
In my experience, using RO water and adding some salts, the first is true. I often need to add acid malt if I'm not using dark/roasted/crystal grains. Not much, often only 1%, but some.

I can't imagine ever needing to add alkalinity, unless using RO water and using roasted grains, like in a stout. For a stout, I use tap water but for all other beers I use RO water.
__________________
Broken Leg Brewery
Giving beer a leg to stand on since 2006

Follow me on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/lorena.t.evans
But I'm pretty boring so don't expect much!
https://www.facebook.com/lorena.t.evans
Yooper is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2012, 10:17 PM   #14
ajdelange
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: McLean/Ogden, Virginia/Quebec
Posts: 7,591
Liked 993 Times on 789 Posts
Likes Given: 28

Default

I use RO water for almost everything and find that I need some acid in most cases - even for rather dark beers. I don't brew the ultra-uber-imperial-super stouts but I have never had to add alkali to a brew (though I do remember chasing pH as in the OP once). Note that when I do do stout I use tap water with alkalinity of about 70 and find pH a bit on the high side though I don't bother with acid in that case.
ajdelange is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools



Forum Jump

Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS