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Old 07-05-2007, 03:00 AM   #21
mr x
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I'm just waiting on the postman for some hardware, so it shouldn't be long before I can let you know for sure. I can e-mail pics when I have more progression, next week sometime.

 
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Old 07-10-2007, 07:14 PM   #22
mr x
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Well it's coming along nicely. It's tight (or as I like to think really efficient use of space.lol), but it fits good. I had to cut down on the rubber on opposite sides of the kegs and remove the shelving from one side of the fridge with a dremel. Pretty easy stuff. If I can find a way to post pics, I'll show you what I did.

 
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Old 07-12-2007, 10:19 PM   #23
mr x
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Pics:

Temperature controller
http://i8.tinypic.com/4tq6ux5.jpg

Main screw (phillips) is under that little blue cover by the dial. You can see the mount post on the side of the fridge. I think i can move the post up as well and fully remount the controller. I think there is a way to slide the post in the slot and screw it down when you position the controller (look under the silver tape behind the light bulb for access).

Door work in progress:
http://i11.tinypic.com/63imfwx.jpg

I used a dremel with a steel cutting wheel to make short work of the shelving. Just a quick pry with a butter knife pops it off the foam insulation. I then rough cut off some of the foam and smoothed out the rest with a sanding wheel as I cleaned up the work. You need every millimeter so sand down your work flush to the wall. It would have been nice I could have left enough of the shelf support (an inch) at the front to support the shelf if I ever wanted to use the fridge for something different, and put the shelves back in, but I don't think it would work. Something to think about for anyone about to do this. And I would cut back another inch of shelving from what you see there regardless.

 
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Old 07-12-2007, 11:20 PM   #24
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Great pics, thanks! Did the staggered fit from that website you found not work? Or you would just prefer that they are side-by-side?
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Old 07-12-2007, 11:32 PM   #25
mr x
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I thought that I would have some use for the door panel, so I decided to try and get them in side by side and keep the door as is. I'll post a pic in 10 min of how it looks.

 
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Old 07-12-2007, 11:51 PM   #26
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http://i13.tinypic.com/54bd81x.jpg

http://i10.tinypic.com/6cdzf9v.jpg

Just fits.


 
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Old 07-12-2007, 11:57 PM   #27
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Will you be resealing the holes? What will you use?

Good job so far.
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Old 07-13-2007, 12:05 AM   #28
mr x
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I don't see the need to reseal where I cut out the shelves (other than cosmetic), but if I was going to do it, I think my only option would be to skim a very thin layer of white silicone over the foam. I might try that if once I get the rest of my brewing house in order.

As a side note, I think the cooling lines are confined to the square space at the back of the fridge, so I'm pretty confident I can drill a hole for my C02 line with few worries. I'll update when I get that done.

 
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Old 07-13-2007, 12:18 AM   #29
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That's definitely a tight fit. Great pics again mr x! You may want to seal the foam because any moisture in it will cause it to start to rot. Metal tape would probably work well for that, or you could do a skim coat of silicone as you suggested.

Is there not enough height on the compressor hump for a 5lbs tank? I was personally hoping for a self-contained unit but if it won't fit it won't fit.
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Old 07-13-2007, 12:26 AM   #30
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I got thinking about it, and maybe it should be sealed. I have lots of metal tape, But the silicone would look better I think. I'll try the silicone first. It is a tight fit - the rubber needs to be trimmed of the sides of the kegs to make it work. But it's not too much work. I have a new 20lb tank, so it'll be outside for sure. I'm not sure about a 5 lb tank, but it would probably fit. If you need some dimensions, I can get them for you.

 
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