Cooler MLT - Braid or False Bottom?

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HoppyMcHopster

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Trying to put together a MLT from a rubbermaid 10G cooler. I was wondering what the differences (other than price) are between using a braid vs using a false bottom?

Thoughts?

PS This cooler will be used for batch sparging.
 
You should get better efficiency using a false bottom, the braid tends to allow for more channeling while drawing your wort out of the MLT, you probably would loose some of the sugars.
That said.. a braid works very well if that is the direction you do choose to go. And batch sparging would probably help separate out the sugars in this application.
 
False bottom for sure I used the braided line at first , efficiency was pretty low. Switched to the false bottom and everything has worked out ever since
 
I use this copper manifold and it works very well - no stuck sparges and efficiencies in the high eighties to low nineties. If you're interested I've got a couple for sale in the classifieds.

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Keep in mind the difference in efficiency really is only if you fly sparge. If you batch sparge the difference is negligable.
 
If money is no option, I'd do the false bottom. I use a braid. It works fine and will get the job done. The 2 things that I dislike about it:
1. The deadspace - if you connect it to the ball valve, there is a good sized deadspace at the bottom of the tun. I don't really need to get all of the wort, but it would be nice to drain from the very bottom.
2. Durability isn't the greatest. When you stir the mash, you knock it around. It gets a bit mangled. It still works, but it won't last forever. I'm sure someone will chime in and say they've used theirs for 20 years, but mines getting ready for a replacement. I'm replacing it with a manifold.
 
If money is no option, I'd do the false bottom. I use a braid. It works fine and will get the job done. The 2 things that I dislike about it:
1. The deadspace - if you connect it to the ball valve, there is a good sized deadspace at the bottom of the tun. I don't really need to get all of the wort, but it would be nice to drain from the very bottom.
2. Durability isn't the greatest. When you stir the mash, you knock it around. It gets a bit mangled. It still works, but it won't last forever. I'm sure someone will chime in and say they've used theirs for 20 years, but mines getting ready for a replacement. I'm replacing it with a manifold.

Pretty much this. It doesn't really matter for batch.

I've been using braid for years, but will be upgrading to a false bottom soon.
 
Batch sparging only suffers efficiency hits with excessive dead space and channeling is not a factor. False bottoms are a waste of money for a batch sparge system. A braid is fine but use something to get a bit of a dip tube to the bottom of the cooler to which the braid is clamped on.
 
I went with the braid trying to take the less expensove DIY route, but after several batches I spring for a false bottom and I did see an improved efficiency (I fly sparge)
The mash tun was easier to thoroughly clean out too
 
Thanks for all the input. I should have mentioned that although I start with a batch sparging strategy, by no means am I married to it. I figured it would be the easiest first step into all grain brewing. I know I will have to at least try fly sparging shortly afterwards. Considering we are only talking about a $20/$30 difference in pricing it seems like the best bet would be to purchase a SS false bottom.
 
I think it makes a difference what size braid you use too. I use a larger water heater connector steel braid in a 5 GAL Igloo. I get good efficiency with batch sparging. I think I paid $12 for the braid and $30 for the weld-less valve. Only negative is it does float up in the mash and I have to try to avoid it when stirring the wet grain..
 
Reuben1012 said:
I think it makes a difference what size braid you use too. I use a larger water heater connector steel braid in a 5 GAL Igloo. I get good efficiency with batch sparging. I think I paid $12 for the braid and $30 for the weld-less valve. Only negative is it does float up in the mash and I have to try to avoid it when stirring the wet grain..

on a similar note, i like to use a tile mortar strirring bit on a drill to stir my mash. The copper manifold (or anything rigid) keeps you from snagging the SS braid.
 
Thanks for all the input. I should have mentioned that although I start with a batch sparging strategy, by no means am I married to it. I figured it would be the easiest first step into all grain brewing. I know I will have to at least try fly sparging shortly afterwards. Considering we are only talking about a $20/$30 difference in pricing it seems like the best bet would be to purchase a SS false bottom.

You should marry the batch sparge method. Till death (of liver) do you part.
 
I think it makes a difference what size braid you use too. I use a larger water heater connector steel braid in a 5 GAL Igloo. I get good efficiency with batch sparging. I think I paid $12 for the braid and $30 for the weld-less valve. Only negative is it does float up in the mash and I have to try to avoid it when stirring the wet grain..

I don't think the length of braid matters that much. Longer ones tend to collapse at times. A lot of the filtering is happening right by the connection to the outlet tube. Try putting a pice of copper pipe in the braid or a piece of pring, this will hold it open so you can't accidentally mash it with your spoon and the mash doesn't cause it to collapse. The collapse thing tends to happen once its been around awhile and used lots of time.
 
I don't think the length of braid matters that much. Longer ones tend to collapse at times. A lot of the filtering is happening right by the connection to the outlet tube. Try putting a pice of copper pipe in the braid or a piece of pring, this will hold it open so you can't accidentally mash it with your spoon and the mash doesn't cause it to collapse. The collapse thing tends to happen once its been around awhile and used lots of time.

I am saying lager diameter is better not length (that's what she said)
the water heater connector is 3/4", those sink connectors are 3/8".
I don't think it will collapse from getting hit. Its just a little annoying I hit it with the spoon....
 
I managed to mash mine with my spoon once, right where it attaches to the hose. Instantly got a stuck sparge and had to scoop out the mash to fix it. I have the smaller one, braid and what she said. I don't see the need for the bigger diameter. Put a piece of hose in the end screw a large bolt in it and clamp, it will weigh down the end and it won't float around.
 
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