Re: Help! Installing Element

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Cioffi

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Hey all,

I used a 1 1/4 Greenlee knockout punch on my kettle (15.5 gallon keg) to make the hole for my Camco 5500W element, per many instructions on this forum. However, the hole seems too large. It measures about 1 3/4 inches across. The element passes through the hole without even touching the sides. The one-inch nut barely catches any of the sides. Is this hole now too big? If so, how so with the Greenlee 1 1/4 punch? I have the Greenlee set: 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1 1/4, so I'm assuming I used the right "1 1/4" punch.

Any help?

Todd
 
You must have used a conduit punch instead of a radial punch. You'll need to get a fitting welded on now.
 
You used a knockout for installing conduit with an ID of 1.25. Therefore the OD is 1.75. I did the same thing. I'd take your kettle and lock nut to a welder. Have them weld the nut over the hole. Then you just screw the element onto the nut.
 
DOH! measure twice cut once. What you wanted was a 1" knockout punch which would have made a 1-3/8" hole. Right now, I'd recommend grabbing a 1" welding spud. I have them for $6 and you can silver solder that thing on over the hole.

spud.png
 
Thanks for the help. So with the welding spud, what gets welded to what and where?

Also, so if I use the 1" punch that I have, it sounds like I'll get the size I need for the other kettle's element - right?

Thanks again,
Todd
 
The flange is soldered or welded to the outside of the pot. It's got a diameter bigger than 1-3/4. Just a word of caution, you can't do this with a ripple element if its mount too low.
 
Electrical knock outs and hole saws are referenced by what size u are using. So that 1/2 knock out is actually 7/8. But its for a single "mc" "nm" etc connector. Which is considered a 1/2 connector.
 
So what if I got two washers that are 2" OD and 1 1/4" ID, putting one on the outside wall of the key and one on the inside wall of the keg? I could then use the outlet box on the outside to provide resistance and then use the nut on the inside to tighten things up. Shouldn't that be water tight? I could always use silicone o-rings to help seal against the washers. Any thoughts?
 
So what if I got two washers that are 2" OD and 1 1/4" ID, putting one on the outside wall of the key and one on the inside wall of the keg? I could then use the outlet box on the outside to provide resistance and then use the nut on the inside to tighten things up. Shouldn't that be water tight? I could always use silicone o-rings to help seal against the washers. Any thoughts?

While it could work...there is nothing but friction holding the element in place in the oversized hole and it could shift and leak...I wouldn't try it....also I would guess that there isn't ample room on the element for 2 washers an o-ring and a nut, the keg wall and a junction box, and it wouldn't seal the threads anyway.

Excellent advice above regarding welding or soldering IMO.

Just for kicks I searched out a stainless tank bulkhead fitting that could work ....be sitting down when you see the price:mug:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BANJO-Bulkhead-Tank-Fitting-1MKH8?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BANJO-Bulkhead-Tank-Fitting-1MKJ1?Pid=search
 
I say go with the spuds from bobby and solder or weld (or have them welded) on, they'll look good and will be more solid then a stack of washers and oring.
 
Okay, good advice. I'm leaning toward the spud for Bobby. But, Bobby, you mention that the element has to be straight - I take it so that it can screwed and unscrewed from the spud without hitting the bottom of the keg. Unfortunately, I have a spiral one (Camco 5500W - the one Kal uses), so I suspect I won't be able to srew and unscrew the thing if the spud is welded to the keg.
 
Yes, if the hole you puntched is really low it may not work to use spuds but do check, the curved bottom of the keg might work to your advantige. Hold the element in place and spin.
 
I believe those elements actually have 1" threads (which needs a 1 1/4" hole to pass through and screw into your 1" lock nut) Look for one that reduces to 1"
 
Okay, I'm apparently slow on the uptake, but thanks for pointing out the 1" thread for the element. So, this should work:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKZJO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Thoughts? I'm assuming the element will attach with the female threads and I'll be able to run the "bulkhead" part (2.5") through the wall of the kettle.
 
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Cioffi said:
Okay, I'm apparently slow on the uptake, but thanks for pointing out the 1" thread for the element. So, this should work:

Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKZJO/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Thoughts? I'm assuming the element will attach with the female threads and I'll be able to run the "bulkhead" part (2.5") through the wall of the kettle.

2.5" is going to be larger than your original hole.

If I were in the same situation, I would buy a 1x1.5 bushing, a stainless washer (to go over 1.5" threads), matching silcone oring and a 1.5 stainless lock nut.
 
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So I made the same mistake as Cioffi and now I've also got a 1-3/4 hole in my kettle. I live in an apartment, so I'm unable to weld a spud into place myself, nor do I know of any reputable welders in my area (Chicago) who could help me out. I'm looking of going the route of using a reducer with a large stainless washer and O ring, but I wanted to verify that I was purchasing the correct size of all parts before proceeding.

Parts List
Reducer 1-1/2 Male NPT to 1" female NPT
O-Ring 1-1/2 nominal ID
Washer 1-1/2 BOLT SIZE
Locknut

Or, if you know anyone in Chicago who wouldn't laugh in my face for a small task such as welding in a spud into a kettle, please let me know!
 
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makubex said:
So I made the same mistake as Cioffi and now I've also got a 1-3/4 hole in my kettle. I live in an apartment, so I'm unable to weld a spud into place myself, nor do I know of any reputable welders in my area (Chicago) who could help me out. I'm looking of going the route of using a reducer with a large stainless washer and O ring, but I wanted to verify that I was purchasing the correct size of all parts before proceeding.

This is the reducer that I need for my 1-3/4 hole, correct?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSL3IG/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Check out colebeer78! He did a lot of welding for me in Chicago. Hr does great work!!
 
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