Re: Help! Installing Element - Page 2 - Home Brew Forums

Register Now!
Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Re: Help! Installing Element

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 04-16-2012, 12:54 AM   #11
wilserbrewer
BIAB Expert Tailor
HBT_SPONSOR.png
 
wilserbrewer's Avatar
Recipes 
 
May 2007
Jersey Shore, New Jersey
Posts: 9,536
Liked 1368 Times on 1047 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cioffi View Post
So what if I got two washers that are 2" OD and 1 1/4" ID, putting one on the outside wall of the key and one on the inside wall of the keg? I could then use the outlet box on the outside to provide resistance and then use the nut on the inside to tighten things up. Shouldn't that be water tight? I could always use silicone o-rings to help seal against the washers. Any thoughts?
While it could work...there is nothing but friction holding the element in place in the oversized hole and it could shift and leak...I wouldn't try it....also I would guess that there isn't ample room on the element for 2 washers an o-ring and a nut, the keg wall and a junction box, and it wouldn't seal the threads anyway.

Excellent advice above regarding welding or soldering IMO.

Just for kicks I searched out a stainless tank bulkhead fitting that could work ....be sitting down when you see the price
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BAN...KH8?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BAN...KJ1?Pid=search

 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 01:15 AM   #12
runs4beer
Recipes 
 
Feb 2010
, NYC
Posts: 386
Liked 14 Times on 10 Posts


I say go with the spuds from bobby and solder or weld (or have them welded) on, they'll look good and will be more solid then a stack of washers and oring.
__________________
Never listen to electric guitar.
-DB
Some folks look for answers
Others look for fights
Some folks up in treetops
Just look to see the sights
-RH

 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 02:40 AM   #13
Cioffi
Recipes 
 
Jan 2011
Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 152
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts


Okay, good advice. I'm leaning toward the spud for Bobby. But, Bobby, you mention that the element has to be straight - I take it so that it can screwed and unscrewed from the spud without hitting the bottom of the keg. Unfortunately, I have a spiral one (Camco 5500W - the one Kal uses), so I suspect I won't be able to srew and unscrew the thing if the spud is welded to the keg.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 09:28 AM   #14
runs4beer
Recipes 
 
Feb 2010
, NYC
Posts: 386
Liked 14 Times on 10 Posts


Yes, if the hole you puntched is really low it may not work to use spuds but do check, the curved bottom of the keg might work to your advantige. Hold the element in place and spin.
__________________
Never listen to electric guitar.
-DB
Some folks look for answers
Others look for fights
Some folks up in treetops
Just look to see the sights
-RH

 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 01:14 PM   #15
Cioffi
Recipes 
 
Jan 2011
Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 152
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts


I know I'm dragging this out, but what you guys think of this:

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Stee.../dp/B003GSL3JA

It looks like it will take the element and function as a weldless bulkhead. Thoughts?

 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 01:39 PM   #16
Backporchbrewery
 
Backporchbrewery's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Feb 2010
Columbus, MS
Posts: 286
Liked 5 Times on 4 Posts


I believe those elements actually have 1" threads (which needs a 1 1/4" hole to pass through and screw into your 1" lock nut) Look for one that reduces to 1"

 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 01:43 PM   #17
IrregularPulse
Hobby Collector
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
 
IrregularPulse's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Nov 2007
Posts: 50,849
Liked 3459 Times on 3280 Posts


Yep, 1" threads on Element.
__________________
Tap Room Hobo

I should have stuck to four fingers in Vegas.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 02:20 PM   #18
Cioffi
Recipes 
 
Jan 2011
Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 152
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts


Okay, I'm apparently slow on the uptake, but thanks for pointing out the 1" thread for the element. So, this should work:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKZJO/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Thoughts? I'm assuming the element will attach with the female threads and I'll be able to run the "bulkhead" part (2.5") through the wall of the kettle.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 03:48 PM   #19
Goocher
Recipes 
 
Oct 2010
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Posts: 75

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cioffi
Okay, I'm apparently slow on the uptake, but thanks for pointing out the 1" thread for the element. So, this should work:

Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKZJO/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Thoughts? I'm assuming the element will attach with the female threads and I'll be able to run the "bulkhead" part (2.5") through the wall of the kettle.
2.5" is going to be larger than your original hole.

If I were in the same situation, I would buy a 1x1.5 bushing, a stainless washer (to go over 1.5" threads), matching silcone oring and a 1.5 stainless lock nut.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 05:08 PM   #20
DaleHair
Recipes 
 
Feb 2012
Dallas, TX
Posts: 161
Liked 8 Times on 6 Posts


Since you used a 1 1/4" conduit punch you need a 1 1/4" - 1" reducer

 
Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
tri-clover removable element - brewershardware element adapter canyonbrewer Electric Brewing 44 04-22-2013 02:24 AM
Installing heating element GregKelley Electric Brewing 10 03-25-2012 12:33 PM
ULWD element dry firing and element lifespan Ajgeo Electric Brewing 5 08-04-2011 07:42 PM
For those of you using Pol's method of installing a heating element... Palefire Electric Brewing 7 06-16-2011 09:00 PM
Installing 30A service questions HHP Electric Brewing 3 05-13-2011 08:43 PM


Forum Jump