Coldbreak Brewing Giveaway - Winners Drawn!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks > Morebeer false bottom/1/2" valve
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 04-14-2012, 07:36 PM   #1
phoenixs4r
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hayward, California
Posts: 1,516
Liked 55 Times on 50 Posts
Likes Given: 38

Default Morebeer false bottom/1/2" valve

Like most folks I started off my all grain brewing using this guide:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/chea...version-23008/

However, instead of the braid I purchased a false bottom:

http://morebeer.com/view_product/155...12%22_Diameter

And it worked fantastic. I only batch sparged but it was working really well. No real stuck sparges to speak of.

I decided to build a two tier and leave the mash tun and boil kettle at the same height, which introduced an issue. For our pumps to work successfully, a 1/2" ID is recommended.

Changing out the valve was simple enough, but unfortunately the false bottom supplied has a 3/8 barb (Which if you look close enough, is actually about 1/4 ID) The part is located here:

http://morebeer.com/view_product/604...%22_Barb_Elbow

For some reason, they don't commonly make a 1/2" to 1/2" variant of it, and i needed 1/2" threads to 5/8" barb to maintain a 1/2" so I went back to the drawing board.

I had ordered an extra compression fitting and 5/8" OD stainless dip tube from Bobby_M, but it didn't fit. I considered cutting it, but the angle it's bent at makes it perfect for a keggle, not so much for this particular project.

I also tried different variations of street elbows, regular elbows, but they all raised the elbow too high on the false bottom, leading to a kinked silicone hose, which sucked.

I gave up a bit, and bought a kettle screen. My issues with this thing was really my own fault mostly. I use a stainless steel clay mixer to mix my mash up really well, and ultimately I'd have a few and the mesh would get caught in the mixer and twist close. I don't know if any of you have had the pleasure of trying to dump out 20+ pounds of grain and mash water to fix this issue, but it's really not fun. Also, I did this about 3 times before it actually split at the seam. My other issue is that it left over 1/2 gallon of mash wort behind, and I'm trying to tighten up my brewhouse efficiencies.





So, I took a piece of 1/2 copper I had left laying around after building my recirculation for my BK, and noticed that it fit perfectly in Bobby_M's compression dip tube. A quick run to the hardware store, I bought an elbow, and done! Really took my too long to figure it out. Plus it's copper, which I'm not a fan of, so I may ask Bobby to custom make me a dip tube after my bank account recovers from my last purchase from him. (Your products rock dude!)

This leaves a small gap in the original hole in the middle of the false bottom, which I covered with a silicon washer. The suction of the mash will hold it down. I'm going to see if I can find a copper washer and sweat it on some how later, but for now, it works.



Hope this helps anyone stuck in my position!


phoenixs4r is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2012, 07:15 AM   #2
Marquez
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 11 reviews
 
Marquez's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Littleton CO
Posts: 356
Liked 14 Times on 14 Posts
Likes Given: 22

Default

I am curious what it is about using copper that you are not a fan.

You have definitely have been around the block with regards to brewing,so I'd value your input.


Marquez is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2012, 02:40 PM   #3
phoenixs4r
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hayward, California
Posts: 1,516
Liked 55 Times on 50 Posts
Likes Given: 38

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marquez
I am curious what it is about using copper that you are not a fan.

You have definitely have been around the block with regards to brewing,so I'd value your input.
There's nothing wrong with it. I'd just rather use stainless. I still have a copper chiller and a copper return for my whirlpool in the BK, but they eventually be replaces with stainless when I can get a deal on the parts.
phoenixs4r is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2013, 08:30 PM   #4
megalomani
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 187
Liked 7 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

I ran into the same issue. Are you still using the copper? When I was moving various parts around trying to find a solutions it seemed a street elbow would work. The silicone tube bent a little (but no kink) when I dry fit everything. I was missing parts and ended up getting a variable bulkhead (2nd pic) to replace the standard in the first picture. Still waiting for the nipple and type B cam to finish the connections.

The male cam fitting replaces the hose barb and the type B cam has female cam connection and the male thread on the other end will have silicone tube stretched over them. Fingers crossed that the false bottom will be removable without needing to break down more than the cam connection.
Click image for larger version

Name:	Better Flow.jpg
Views:	548
Size:	12.5 KB
ID:	98313   Click image for larger version

Name:	Variable Bulk Head.jpg
Views:	563
Size:	15.3 KB
ID:	98314  
megalomani is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2013, 12:25 AM   #5
phoenixs4r
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hayward, California
Posts: 1,516
Liked 55 Times on 50 Posts
Likes Given: 38

Default

I just built a 15 gallon mash tun.

I want to say I experimented with something like that, and everything was too tight a fit to work, and it also made getting the false bottom out a pita. But honestly i dont remember. Good luck though.
phoenixs4r is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2013, 12:38 AM   #6
megalomani
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 187
Liked 7 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

I actually played around a little more with this today and am pretty happy with how things fit thus far. I still am missing a short nipple to thread the street elbow onto, through the false bottom hole and secured with a washer. In the pics bellow a short piece of silicone tube was used in place of the nipple.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0601.jpg
Views:	516
Size:	31.7 KB
ID:	98389   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0603.jpg
Views:	523
Size:	45.7 KB
ID:	98390   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0609.jpg
Views:	494
Size:	23.6 KB
ID:	98391   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0610.jpg
Views:	531
Size:	14.6 KB
ID:	98392   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0611.jpg
Views:	514
Size:	41.9 KB
ID:	98393  

megalomani is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2013, 12:40 AM   #7
phoenixs4r
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hayward, California
Posts: 1,516
Liked 55 Times on 50 Posts
Likes Given: 38

Default

That looks good. I tried with the old bulkhead which didn't work. The new one is much smaller. Interesting place to put a cam lock tho
phoenixs4r is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2013, 12:45 AM   #8
megalomani
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 187
Liked 7 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

Here are some more pics. Only a slight problem is the small difference in height from the cooler opening to the street elbow. This causes a little pulling on the back end of the false bottom. With slight pressure the silicone tube is plenty flexible to accommodate. With the weight of grain on top of this I don't think it will be an issue. To make it better I would have substituted Cam lock B for the Big C that Bobby_M is manufacturing. PITA to get the silicone over the threads and it shreds the silicone slightly. You can see bellow that the false bottom is very easy to remove once cams are unlocked. With the standard bulkhead/barb this was not possible without taking the entire valve off. Let me know what you think.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0612.jpg
Views:	524
Size:	35.3 KB
ID:	98396   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0614.jpg
Views:	489
Size:	29.3 KB
ID:	98397   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0615.jpg
Views:	470
Size:	56.6 KB
ID:	98398   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0616.jpg
Views:	461
Size:	40.6 KB
ID:	98399   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0618.jpg
Views:	461
Size:	56.6 KB
ID:	98400  

megalomani is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2013, 01:13 AM   #9
megalomani
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 187
Liked 7 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenixs4r View Post
That looks good. I tried with the old bulkhead which didn't work. The new one is much smaller. Interesting place to put a cam lock tho
Agree this wouldn't work with the old bulkhead. In a thread I can not locate any longer Bobby had suggested using cam locks as quick disconnects for this purpose. At the time I thought that was too much metal on the inside of the cooler but after removing the key rings and giving it a try, it doesn't seem that bulky anymore.

Bobby, if you see this consider selling as a kit on your site. With your ingenuity I bett you can improve on this design slightly and sell as a one-stop package. Still not sure if the nipple (1&1/8") will be the right size to thread the street elbow and have the right amount of length to act as a dip tube but not touch bottom either.
megalomani is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2013, 02:35 PM   #10
smittygouv30
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 336
Liked 19 Times on 17 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Megalomani,

I'm glad I came across this thread. I recently purchased 2 pumps and was about to pull the trigger on the more beer false bottom, not even considering the 3/8" barb. The false bottom will replace my SS mesh braid. I really really like this set-up and want to recreate it exactly, unless you have any thoughts on things you would do differently.
I already have an extra Camlock A and will order a Camlock Big C from bobby as you mention. My question is do I need to order a different locknut for the under the false bottom?

Correct me if i'm wrong here... you have a 1/2" nipple threaded through the false bottom and into the street elbow then a locknut threaded onto the other side of the nipple holding everything place.

So to reiterate, is the locknut that comes with the morebeer false bottom 1/2" or do I need to order a separate 1/2" SS locknut.

Thanks,

Corey


smittygouv30 is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Help with DIY false bottom ThwWorm Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks 24 10-09-2012 08:22 PM
Cut keg top for false bottom? benbradford Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks 108 09-29-2012 03:57 PM
False bottom sleighdoh Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks 0 03-10-2012 12:44 PM
12" SS False Bottom with 1/2" Hose Barb? makisupa Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks 3 03-24-2011 07:45 PM
False bottom. Orfy Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks 8 02-21-2010 05:53 PM


Forum Jump

Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS