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Old 04-18-2012, 11:47 PM   #31
Calichusetts
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Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlakeL View Post
Im going to replace the airlock tubing tonight with the airlock that came with the kit. Should I use the tubing or a baster to draw some of the beer out to try and see how it is coming along?

I wouldn't, probably the only downside of 1 gallon is you really can't taste it without significantly cutting into your final product, wait until you bottle, you'll have some leftover to taste then



 
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Old 04-19-2012, 02:51 AM   #32
Ply318ci
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Yeah don't worry about it you will probably get about a half bottle left over when bottling just drink that to get an idea of the taste. When I made this it turned out more like a APA then a IPA but still good.



 
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:31 AM   #33
SaintBenedict
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Apr 2012
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Just curious if anyone has ever bothered to take a hydrometer reading on the one gallon BBS Everyday IPA kit. I brewed my first batch a couple weeks ago, and as far as I could tell the reading was 1.048 with the yeast pitched at approximately 82°. According to Dave's Dreaded Homebrew Calculator (http://dd26943.com/davesdreaded/tools/convert.htm), the maximum potential alcohol content is somewhere in the neighborhood of 6.7%. Just curious how this worked out for other brewers so I know what I can expect.

BTW, after approximately two and a half weeks in primary, I stuck the carboy in the fridge but left the airlock in place. Is it necessary or advisable to remove it? Just wasn't certain if primary fermentation was entirely finished. I had a strong initial fermentation with aggressive krausening (is that a verb?), but no airlock activity after that first week. I suppose the thought of an explosion in my fridge was enough to convince me to play it safe and leave it on.

Sorry if I high-jacked your thread, OP. Thought it seemed appropriate to post these questions since we're both in the same boat. Thanks.

 
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Old 04-19-2012, 12:13 PM   #34
Calichusetts
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You could get some suckback from crashing it in your fridge...what did you put in the airlock, water? I usually use a blowoff tube but some people put vodka in the airlock

Your schedule seems fine and depending on your method, you should see around a 5% ABV with these kits

 
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Old 04-19-2012, 02:22 PM   #35
Rdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ply318ci
To repeat what Cali said a mini auto siphon is the best money spent.
I agree that the mini auto siphon is one of the best purchases you can make for small batches.

 
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:38 PM   #36
SaintBenedict
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Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calichusetts View Post
You could get some suckback from crashing it in your fridge...what did you put in the airlock, water? I usually use a blowoff tube but some people put vodka in the airlock

Your schedule seems fine and depending on your method, you should see around a 5% ABV with these kits
Thanks for your reply. I put a solution of StarSan and water in a three piece airlock. Given the design of this particular airlock, is it possible for the sanitizer and water to get drawn back into the carboy?

Interesting to note that the makers of the kit project the ABV for this IPA at roughly 6.7%, if I recall correctly. Though, perhaps the recipe in their book is slightly different than the grains supplied with the actual kit. At any rate, it's a start.

 
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:03 PM   #37
Calichusetts
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Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaintBenedict View Post
Thanks for your reply. I put a solution of StarSan and water in a three piece airlock. Given the design of this particular airlock, is it possible for the sanitizer and water to get drawn back into the carboy?

Interesting to note that the makers of the kit project the ABV for this IPA at roughly 6.7%, if I recall correctly. Though, perhaps the recipe in their book is slightly different than the grains supplied with the actual kit. At any rate, it's a start.
It is possible to get suckback with the 3-piece...most people who are reporting suckback are refering to a 3-piece. Its much harder or impossible(?) to do it with an S-piece.

I think that the BBS recipes are calculating a 75% efficiency in their recipies. Following their directions (using a collander to be specific) usually won't get you to that, more like mid-60s. I do a variation of their directions still with my own 1-gallon recipies and can get low 70s but not consistently.

I recommend a refractometer as soon as you can afford it...only a few drops of wort and you can calculate your OG to see if you come close to their projected...but don't be suprised if your far lower with their prediction.

 
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:41 PM   #38
Ply318ci
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Aug 2011
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I found it to be much lower myself the low 60s is about right. You can do a pre boil gravity reading with a hydrometer that is a trick I learned on here. Just take a hydro reading before you boil (letting it cool downs little from the 150-170 degree range by throwing the sample in the freezer while the rest is boiling) then take the reading adjusting for temp then multiple the numbers after the decimal by your pre boil volume then divide by the post boil volume and bam OG.

Example: I did a wheat beer the pre boil reading was 1.036. So 36x1.3=47/1=47. So my OG is 1.047. If I was doing two gallons it would be 1.036 pre boil so 36x2.3=86/2=43 so my OG is 1.043. Hope that helps.

 
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:55 PM   #39
SaintBenedict
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Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calichusetts View Post
It is possible to get suckback with the 3-piece...most people who are reporting suckback are refering to a 3-piece. Its much harder or impossible(?) to do it with an S-piece.

I think that the BBS recipes are calculating a 75% efficiency in their recipies. Following their directions (using a collander to be specific) usually won't get you to that, more like mid-60s. I do a variation of their directions still with my own 1-gallon recipies and can get low 70s but not consistently.

I recommend a refractometer as soon as you can afford it...only a few drops of wort and you can calculate your OG to see if you come close to their projected...but don't be suprised if your far lower with their prediction.
Thanks for your input and the advice about getting a refractometer; you're the second person to suggest using one. I'm looking to move to 2.5 gallon batches, so hopefully removing the amount of wort to test OG won't be an issue, no matter which way I decide to go.

 
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:56 PM   #40
SaintBenedict
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Apr 2012
Posts: 19

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ply318ci View Post
I found it to be much lower myself the low 60s is about right. You can do a pre boil gravity reading with a hydrometer that is a trick I learned on here. Just take a hydro reading before you boil (letting it cool downs little from the 150-170 degree range by throwing the sample in the freezer while the rest is boiling) then take the reading adjusting for temp then multiple the numbers after the decimal by your pre boil volume then divide by the post boil volume and bam OG.

Example: I did a wheat beer the pre boil reading was 1.036. So 36x1.3=47/1=47. So my OG is 1.047. If I was doing two gallons it would be 1.036 pre boil so 36x2.3=86/2=43 so my OG is 1.043. Hope that helps.
Nifty trick—thanks!



 
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