Help me complete the electronic components in my Brutus 10 build - Home Brew Forums
Register Now For Free!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > Help me complete the electronic components in my Brutus 10 build

Thread Tools
Old 04-09-2012, 03:11 PM   #1
jawilson20's Avatar
Mar 2011
atlanta, ga
Posts: 281
Liked 11 Times on 7 Posts

I have purchased the following;
2x Honeywell VR8200A2124 Standing Pilot Gas Valve 1/2" NPT
2x Q340 Thermocouple
2x Honeywell Q314A3547 Pilot Burner
2 x Universal 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SYL-2362)
2 x Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2.5 inch, 1/2 NPT Thread (PT100-L601/2NPT)
I now need switches, transformers, wires, etc to get this thing fired up. (I plan to connect two Chugger Pumps).

I plan to order an enclosure from Pioneer Breaker today and would like to combine anything they can supply with this order. I am thinking the 12x12x6 box should be large enough.

Is there a list out there with the specs and maybe suppliers of the remaining components? And even better is there a thread out there that would explain to an idiot like myself how to hook it all up so that I don't blow up myself or anything I have purchased in the process?

Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 04:52 PM   #2
pfgonzo's Avatar
Oct 2008
San Francisco Bay Area, California
Posts: 744
Liked 83 Times on 59 Posts

Subscribed. I'm trying to gather more info on the "panel" portion of the stand myself.

Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 07:21 PM   #3
jawilson20's Avatar
Mar 2011
atlanta, ga
Posts: 281
Liked 11 Times on 7 Posts


I am confident I can wire this up if I only know the name and specs of the various pieces.

Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 08:34 PM   #4
jfrizzell's Avatar
Jun 2007
Posts: 686
Liked 12 Times on 10 Posts

Here are my recommendations:

Power Cord to Control Panel
- Get yourself an outdoor 14/3 extension cord. This will have a 13A rating and should be more than enough to power two pumps and the controls. Cut the female end off and wire it to terminal blocks inside the control panel for hot / neutral and ground. You'll run wires off this terminal block to the other devices in the panel.

Switches / Lights
- Not knowing exactly how you want to control everything, it's difficult to make full recommendations, but I would get 22mm switches from Automation Direct. Start here:
- For the pumps, you'll want 2-position selector switches (Off / On). You can either go non-illuminated or illuminated. You want the 2-pos maintained switches with 1 NO contact. This contact will close when you turn the switch to on and will supply power to the pump. If you want lighted, get the 120V lighted version and you can wire the light to the same contact so the light comes on when the switch is on.
- For the burners, you can either go with 2-position switches (Off / On) and always have the PID controller fire the burner or you can go with 3-position switches (Hand / Off / Auto) and have the option to manually fire the burner. In the hand position, the switch will send 24VAC to the valve. In the auto position, the PID controller will determine when to send 24VAC to the valve. Again, you can go illuminated or non-illuminated. If illuminated, get the 24VAC versions.

24VAC Transformer
- You'll need a 120VAC to 24VAC transformer for the Honeywell valves. The valves draw 0.5A at 24VAC each, so that's 24VA (Volt Amps). Get yourself a 50VA transformer. This one would work: There are certainly cheaper transformers out there though so just look for a 50VA 120VAC/24VAC transformer.

Everything can be wired up with 16 gauge stranded copper wire. You should be able to get this at any hardware store. I would recommend getting different color wires for the different voltages, etc. Red for 120V Hot, White for 120V Neutral, Green for Ground. for 24VAC you can either use the Red and White and mark them with a piece of colored electrical tape or go with different colors. It just helps keep things straight when hooking it all up.

I know Pioneer Breaker also has switches so if you want to get them with your enclosure to get everything from one place, just use the Automation Direct links to help figure out what kind of switches you want. For the 22mm switches, you need a 22.5mm hole which is just slightly larger than 7/8". You can either use a step bit with a 7/8 step and then just open it up a bit with the next step, or if you want to spend a bit more money, get a panel punch made for 22mm switches.

If you haven't already, I highly recommend checking out Kal's electric brewery site. While the panel is designed to control electric elements instead of burners, much of the same principles apply and you can get some ideas of other things you might want to add to the panel such as a timer and perhaps temperature alarms if your PID controllers have that option.

Hope that helps. Any questions, feel free to ask and I can try to help.
Primary: Pliney the Elder Clone
Kegged: Tank 7 / Saison Brett

Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2012, 11:59 AM   #5
Jan 2012
Wilmington, North Carolina
Posts: 74
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

I found this helpful

Reply With Quote
Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
My Brutus 10 Build ccrum Brew Stands 3 10-19-2010 02:45 PM
Brutus 20e Build CodeRage Brew Stands 70 06-13-2010 11:42 AM
Yet another Brutus build gunmetal Brew Stands 6 05-11-2010 02:02 PM
HERMS Build without electronic control ghart999 Brew Stands 16 03-12-2010 09:29 PM
My Brutus Build Desert_Sky Brew Stands 45 06-06-2008 08:11 PM

Forum Jump