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Old 04-06-2012, 01:17 AM   #11
Budzu's Avatar
Mar 2009
Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 747
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Purpose of the adapter seems to me to provide a messy looking installation :P
I like just using a metal outdoor box to mount the element, and ground the box inside like its set up to. (kal type)
On my 120v I use just a single gang extension box.
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:56 AM   #12
ScottSingleton's Avatar
Feb 2012
Manassas, VA
Posts: 434
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My **** doesn't need to be all bling I was going to do that gang box but it was pretty bulky and prevented me from mounting my RIMS tube where I wanted it.

The PVC cap is pretty streamline, and I don't mind it at all.

My second RIMS tube that I use on the HLT is not the Brewers Hardware model but the one made from standard SS piping (Different Vendor). It was actually harder to ground and required me to weld a bit of threaded bar onto the tube.

I've seen folks on here fill various items with epoxy/JBWeld or Silicone. Everything from the plastic paint-can caps to open PVC pipe. Whatever works to keep any spray/spill off the contacts and allow you to ground to the device.

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Old 04-06-2012, 03:06 PM   #13
Jan 2009
Holly, MI
Posts: 562
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Originally Posted by Beerens View Post
I am looking to invest in a tri-clover RIMS tube from Brewers Hardware. The first ordering choice is between a 1.5" Tri Clover X 1" NPS Fitting and a 1.5" Tri Clover X 1" NPS Element Adapter.

The fitting without the adapter says that "YOU MUST PROVIDE A GROUND AND A COVER TO COVER THE ELEMENT CONNECTIONS! Failure to do so could easily result in electrocution and death!"

This option is $40 cheaper and I was wondering how difficult it would be to ground it and cover the element connections?

Is it worth the $40 to get the adapter? Is it safer?

I don't understand what is the difference... If someone has a picture of the fitting without the adapter I would appreciate seeing what it looks like.
A buddy and I both bought the RIMS tube with the more expensive adapter (bought a second adapter for my brew kettle conversion too). Actually working on wiring it up today. Let me know if you have any questions on that adapter.

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Old 04-06-2012, 03:27 PM   #14
Sep 2009
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I don't think Derrin offered two options when I purchased my RIMS tube. But the grounding lug is a must, IMO. I too use a PVC end cap, but added a flexible coupler. Works great. I used JB weld to seal the power cord in the end cap.

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Old 04-20-2012, 04:32 PM   #15
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Feb 2011
Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 820
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Only real complaints I have about the adapter cover are:

1) Not a lot of room to work. I already have a 1-1/2" 1/2" drive socket, and it won't fit inside the opening to snug down the heating element, so I have to go get a cheapo water heater socket wrench.

2) Not a lot of room to work. The ground lug has to be removable to facilitate the removal of the heating element. The screw has a 9/64" hex socket head, and uses 3/8" nuts, so unless you have a very slim wrench, or are very good with needle-nosed pliers, tightening the ground lug can be a pain in the butt.

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