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Old 09-09-2012, 12:59 PM   #21
stlbeer
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There's a solenoid (electromagnet) in the contactor that runs on 120v. When the switch is closed, it energizes the electromagnet and closes the contacts (get it, contactor) completing the circuit between both halves of the contactor. Turn the switch off and the electromagnet is de-energized and the spring in the contactor opens the contacts breaking the circuit between the two halves. Typically used to switch higher voltages and amperages. It's used as a safety measure since SSR's can fail and when they do they typically fail closed allowing amps to flow. The contactor is a definite purpose device and can disconnect power to the element/outlet while leaving everything else powered on.
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Old 09-10-2012, 03:18 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlbeer
There's a solenoid (electromagnet) in the contactor that runs on 120v. When the switch is closed, it energizes the electromagnet and closes the contacts (get it, contactor) completing the circuit between both halves of the contactor. Turn the switch off and the electromagnet is de-energized and the spring in the contactor opens the contacts breaking the circuit between the two halves. Typically used to switch higher voltages and amperages. It's used as a safety measure since SSR's can fail and when they do they typically fail closed allowing amps to flow. The contactor is a definite purpose device and can disconnect power to the element/outlet while leaving everything else powered on.
That makes sense...thanks for explaining. Still trying to wrap my head around the different components and how they work together. This is helpful.

 
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:48 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lilrascal View Post
Where did you end up getting your contactors? The ones from the electrical diagram in your original post say "240V - 30A, 120V coil". Saw that you're running this on 120V 20amps, which as I understand is standard residential power. That is the same as what I plan to do.

I found all the other components that I need on Aubers site, but I don't see contactors that match the description in the electrical diagram...closest I can find is this:

"Contactor, 2 pole, 30A, 120V Coil"
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...b6c73c795b621a

Hopefully this isn't splitting hairs; I just don't want to mess around (at all) when it comes to electricity and wiring, ya know?

 
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:59 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilBrewer View Post
Where did you end up getting your contactors? The ones from the electrical diagram in your original post say "240V - 30A, 120V coil". Saw that you're running this on 120V 20amps, which as I understand is standard residential power. That is the same as what I plan to do.

I found all the other components that I need on Aubers site, but I don't see contactors that match the description in the electrical diagram...closest I can find is this:

"Contactor, 2 pole, 30A, 120V Coil"
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...b6c73c795b621a

Hopefully this isn't splitting hairs; I just don't want to mess around (at all) when it comes to electricity and wiring, ya know?
There is no problem using a contactor that is rated for more amps, just do not want to use one rated for less. I went with the 20amp ones because they were cheaper at the time. I got them from Amazon. Now the 30 amp ones are cheaper if you factor in that they ship free with Prime. Here they are: Amazon 30amp Contactors. If you don't have Prime, you could always get some other stuff for your build to get to the $25 mark, such as a terminal block etc.
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:19 PM   #25
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What sized batches are you doing? I am looking to do 10 and 15 gallon batches and want to be able to quickly ramp mash temps.

 
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:22 PM   #26
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What sized batches are you doing? I am looking to do 10 and 15 gallon batches and want to be able to quickly ramp mash temps.
I am doing 10 gallon batches. So far when I wanted to raise to mashout, I use propane and the rims. Works quickly, but I have not tried with electrical element alone since I have capability to use both.
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:27 PM   #27
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The rims tube is going to be my only heat source for the mash tun. Can you fit one of the regular 240v ULWD in the rims tube?

 
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:29 PM   #28
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Quote:
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The rims tube is going to be my only heat source for the mash tun. Can you fit one of the regular 240v ULWD in the rims tube?
He has a 2" rims tube now. That is the one I went with, so there was no problem fitting in my single fold over element.
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:35 PM   #29
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I bought mine before he had the 2" one. I don't think that he would exchange them

 
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:48 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyirishman34 View Post
What sized batches are you doing? I am looking to do 10 and 15 gallon batches and want to be able to quickly ramp mash temps.
Not to butt in here, but I run a RIMS on my 10 gallon cooler, and during ramp up for mashout, I usually get 1-2 degrees per minute. Not too shabby.

 
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