Auber SYL-2352 turnes off and on regularly in manual mode - Home Brew Forums
Register Now For Free!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Auber SYL-2352 turnes off and on regularly in manual mode

Thread Tools
Old 04-04-2012, 02:32 PM   #1
May 2011
Reykjavik, Reykjavik
Posts: 78


I have Auber SYL-2352 which I use in manual mode when boiling with my 5500W element. I turn it down to 70% but it seems that the controller is working like in binary mode, turning the element on for 30 seconds and off for 10 seconds and then back on again. I would think the behavior should be more that the controller is constant in 70% power. When I try it in 95% in manual mode in behaves the same but is longer on and shorter off. It is not due to overheating because I'm cooling the element.

I'm wondering if it is some setting that I have changed unknowingly or is it some deeper problem?

Any ideas?


Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2012, 02:47 PM   #2
Mar 2010
Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,336
Liked 302 Times on 235 Posts

You need to set the manual mode time to 2 seconds.

4.5.3. Manual mode
Manual mode allows the user to control the output as a percentage of the
total heater power. It is like a dial on a stove. The output is independent of the
temperature sensor reading. One application example is controlling the
strength of boiling during beer brewing. You can use the manual mode to
control the boiling so that it will not boil over to make a mess. The manual
mode can be switched from PID mode but not from On/off mode. This
controller offers a “bumpless” switch from the PID to manual mode. If the
controller outputs 75% of power at PID mode, the controller will stay at 75%
when it is switched to the manual mode, until it is adjusted manually. See
Figure 3 for how to switch the display mode. The Manual control is initially
disabled (A/M=2). To activate the manual control, set A/M=0 or 1.
4.6 Cycle time “t”
It is the time period (in seconds) that the controller uses to calculate its
output. e.g. When t=2, if the controller decides output should be 10%, the
heater will be on 0.2 second and off 1.8 seconds for every 2 seconds. Smaller
t values result in more precision control. For SSR output, t is set at the
minimum (2 seconds). For relay or contactor output, it should be set longer to
prevent contacts from wearing out too soon. Normally it is set to 20~ 4 0

Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2012, 03:59 PM   #3
CidahMastah's Avatar
Nov 2010
, New York
Posts: 4,242
Liked 42 Times on 39 Posts

t should have been defaulted to t=2 as per the manual. However perhaps the setting was changed along the way.
Man,... That's a lotta hooch!
Steel rig in progress
ebuild info

Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2012, 04:01 PM   #4
Jan 2010
Posts: 701
Liked 52 Times on 49 Posts

^ This happened to me. Resetting "t" to 2 rectified the problem.
nurture my pig

Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2012, 05:55 PM   #5
May 2011
Reykjavik, Reykjavik
Posts: 78

Hello again.

This setting was indeed set to t=20 or t=40 (don't remember which). When I changed it to 2 the only change I noticed was that the temperature (top indicator) number was blinking back and forth between current temperature i.e. 60C and some incredible high number something about 200-400. The controller did continue to go on and off like stated previously. When I changed the t to 4 the blinking between the numbers stopped but the element was as before turning on and off again.


Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2012, 06:19 PM   #6
Beholden to the Yeast
voltin's Avatar
Jul 2011
Lubbock, TX
Posts: 416
Liked 15 Times on 12 Posts

It sounds like you might have your temperature probe too close to the element, which is why you are noticing temperature swings.

When in manual mode, the PID functions as a PWM (Pulsed Width Modulation) controller. This means it will turn the element on and off to achieve a power output of your choosing. When you select 50% this means that the element will be on half the time and off half the time. In the case of T=4, the element will turn on for two seconds and then off for another two seconds.

This is the most efficient ways to control power output.
My eBIAB Build | Texas Blues and Brews Festival

On Deck: Motor Oil Barleywine, Cider Trials, Vanilla Cream Ale, California Blonde
Primary: Cotton Blossom Traditional Mead, 1744 Porter (Ale-ian Society Club Brew), Old Ale
Secondary: Peach Wine, Cranberry Cider
Kegged: Nothing :(
On Tap: Nothing :(
Bottled: Yup still nothing...

Reply With Quote
Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Auber PID SYL-2352 bbrim Electric Brewing 2 02-19-2012 03:24 AM
Auber 2352 PIDs terrazza Electric Brewing 5 10-13-2011 10:17 PM
Help with Auber 2352 bendavanza Electric Brewing 3 08-16-2011 07:38 PM
Help with Auber 2352 PID Navy_Brewer Electric Brewing 0 04-05-2011 07:38 PM
Auber 2352 vs. 2362 paledragon Electric Brewing 0 12-19-2010 02:24 PM

Forum Jump